New Book Project — Research Started

As you probably know, Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango! was the first in a series of “love letters to Argentina”. I hadn’t planned it that way originally, but it soon became clear it was the way to go.

I have been working on the second one, which is about my trip to Salta and Jujuy at the beginning of December. I will probably publish that when I get back to Canada in May — or maybe before.

But I’m excited to let you know I now have the third book in the works! Buenos Aires has a very strong cafe tradition, and there are quite a number of establishments known as cafes notables or bares notables — cafes and bars are pretty much the same thing here. Anyway, these notable bars and cafes are very old, often historic, eating and gathering places across the city, and I decided it would be a good idea to write a book about them.

I don’t want it to be a “guide book”, but rather my own take on these wonderful old places, so that others visiting can decide which ones to visit. I’ve put out the word to a small group of my friends here who might like to join me in the “research” phase — ie visiting as many as possible before I leave at the end of April, sampling the coffee, wine and food (notably pastries!) Research is hell, but it has to be done!!

Yesterday I did the first research trip on my own, because it was such short notice nobody else was able to come.

Las Violetas

Las Violetas is one of the most popular of the cafes notables, and this was my first visit. I consulted my trusty Google Maps, but didn’t like the route they suggested. I thought I knew a better one. Well … it did get me there, but I had to walk quite a distance through a barrio known as Once (pronounced onsay). This is not one of the better areas of town, but I have to say I loved it! There was such energy and fun in the air just walking down Pueyrredon that I was tempted to whip out my iPhone and make a video, but I quickly realized that wasn’t advisable as someone might have pinched it as I worked! I’m not a bit afraid as I walk on the streets of Buenos Aires, but there’s no point in being silly!

Anyway, I eventually arrived at Las Violetas and it was well worth the long walk. Here are a few photos I shot inside.


Although I opted to have a steak sandwich and make it my evening meal, their specialty really is “afternoon tea or coffee”, with huge plates of little sandwiches and these yummy miniature cakes. So I’ll definitely have to go back to Las Violetas with friends to share the bounty — as well as the “research!”

Stay tuned for more cafes notables posts coming up soon.