La Glorieta

This is La Glorieta, where I went dancing last night. Glorieta is the Spanish word for a gazebo which, as you can see, is what it is. It’s a big one, in the middle of a hilly park in the suburb of Belgrano, which fortunately it’s just a ten minute train ride away.

My friend Lina was supposed to go, but she twisted her ankle yesterday, so she couldn’t go. (She was icing it yesterday so that she would be able to dance tonight—you can’t keep a good tanguera down!) Anyway, I was geared up, so I went by myself and I had a great time. I stayed just under an hour-and-a-half and I danced my little heart out. The only tanda I sat out was by choice. It was a vals, which is the tango waltz, and although I love the music and I like watching, I don’t like dancing it myself. Don’t really know why, but there it is.

Anyway, that’s about enough time there, because it’s a terrazza floor and very hard on the feet and knees. Not only that, but last night was unbearably hot and I just about managed to make it to the train so that I could sit down for a rest!

But today’s another day—and another milonga!

Outdoor milonga and Chinese food

Last night I went again to La Glorieta, the outdoor milonga in a lovely gazebo in the park. I went with my friend Viviana.

We’ve been having unbearably hot weather for the past week, but last night it felt cooler, so it was perfect for dancing. As I mentioned last time I wrote about La Glorieta, there are no chairs so when you are not dancing you are standing. And the floor is terrazza, so these two things combine to make it hard on the feet. We stayed just over an hour, but danced a lot and had fun.

Just around the corner from the park is Barrio Chino, the Buenos Aires version of Chinatown, so we walked round there afterwards and finished our evening with some lovely Chinese food and a glass of wine. OK a bottle of wine.

This could easily become a favourite Saturday night spot when the weather is good.

Tango in the Open Air!

Wow, last night I went somewhere I have been wanting to go to for a very long time. It’s called La Glorieta, and it’s an open-air milonga. I went with two of my tanguera friends, Lina and Lola.

The dance space is in a pergola in a park in the barrio of Belgrano, which takes ten minutes or so by train from the main railway station. When we arrived, a class was just finishing, and there was also some kind of film crew setting up. A few couples were dancing — in silence. Yes, no music. It turned out there was some sort of power cut and they couldn’t work the sound system, but they said it would start in an hour when it began to get dark and the generator-powered lights came on. This being Buenos Aires, nobody complained and everyone just sat on the steps, changed their shoes and began to chat with other people.

Sure enough, as darkness fell, the music started and the milonga was soon in full swing. The crowd had people from twenties to eighties, which was delightful. It does my heart good to see how many young people are dancing tango, because that will keep it alive. All three of us danced quite a lot, which always makes it fun.

There are a few differences between La Glorieta and the traditional milongas. First, it’s free to go in, although they do pass a hat once the dancing is well underway. You put in whatever you like — here this is called paying a la gorra.

There’s nowhere to put your bag, so you hang it on a hook on the side railing. Sounded a bit iffy to me, but everyone does it and mine came to no harm.

There’s no food or drink, and I have to admit I enjoy a glass of champagne at the usual milongas. Still, it’s probably just as well as there are no washrooms either!

The one thing that did bother me was that there are no chairs. So you are either dancing or standing, and don’t get the chance to rest your legs between tandas as you do in regular milongas. And the floor is terrazza, which is hard on the knees anyway. So we just stayed about 90 minutes and our legs had had enough. (I’m resting up today so that I’ll be ready for my regular milonga tonight!)

I didn’t take any photos as I was too busy dancing, but these stock photos will give you an idea how it looks. I’ll definitely be going back!