Traditional Criollo Bar and Music

On Thursday night I went with Vivi and Venetia to a place called Pa’l Que Guste, which features traditional Criollo food and presents weekly shows of folkloric music.

The word Criollo (in Argentina pronounced criosho) originally meant anyone of European extraction who was born in Argentina or other country in South America. It’s still a vibrant culture, as you will see from the video.

At one point you will see a sign above the singer’s head that says Pulperia. That’s what the traditional gaucho drinking places are called.

You’ll notice I zeroed in on the drummer at one point. That’s because I thought he looked like Johnny Depp and I wanted to see if anyone else agreed with me. What do you think? Vivi said yes, Venetia said no.

The video begins with the music itself, and you’ll see this is the kind of place where people in the audience can feel free to take a turn at the mic. The music is the accompaniment to a dance called chacarera, and you’ll see a group of people at the back started to dance. Vivi couldn’t sit still, and I just knew she wouldn’t be able to resist joining in — you’ll see I was right!

The last clip of the movie was, in my view, the highlight of the evening. A couple came from the back and danced chacarera at the front beside the band. I don’t know if they were professionals, but they were great dancers. Check out his footwork and her arm movements — beautiful!

Special Milonga

On Sunday night I went with my friend Lola to the milonga at La Nacional, but this was a special charity milonga. There was no fixed price to get in, and you just donated whatever you wanted. I put just a bit more than I would normally pay, but some people must have been extremely generous because they raised 90,000 pesos, or almost $1,400. The money goes towards education in the rural areas of Argentina, so it was a good cause. They do this every month for a different charity — sadly I’ll have left by the time next month’s rolls around.

At one point during the evening there was a break from the dancing, and we were treated to two exhibitions. One was a couple dancing a very nice tango, and the second was this exhibition of a folkloric dance called the Chacarera. Its origins are in the mountains, and it’s a very lyrical, romantic dance of flirtation between the couple.

As I have just over three weeks left before I leave this time, I’ll be going to a lot of milongas between now and then!