Bares Notables

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I’m Glad I Changed My Mind

Last Thursday, after having that great Spanish lunch, I decided a quiet night at home was in order. And I did enjoy just lazing around, reading and doing my knitting! I had no plans for Friday night, and I planned a repeat. However…

Our talented friend Joanna Maddox had a gig at Bar Seddon, a Bar Notable in San Telmo, and after a couple of people asked if I was going, I just went with it! After my writers group Zoom call, I had a quick bite to eat and then took off.

Bar Seddon is typical of the Bares Notables, very old, quite dim and with old style Buenos Aires ambiance—just what I love. And it was great to see Joanna perform from down in the audience, interacting with them. At one point in the video you can see what the place looks like as well as people obviously having a great time.

Joanna never disappoints, and I’m glad I changed my mind! Here’s my mashup from the show.

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One Bar Notable Is Pressing On

There’s been news over recent weeks about several of the famous Bares Notables and other well established eating places saying they won’t be able to reopen after lockdown ends.

But today a friend sent me a link to a new-look website for online sales of products from El Gato Negro. I’ve written about this lovely cafe before, and it is certainly one to include in my book. It has a reputation for its wonderful selection of teas, coffees, herbs and spices, which are not only used in the food they serve in the cafe, but also for sale.

Here’s a page from the new site, describing the items for sale — this is just the top of the page, and scrolling down I could see there are many more.

And the great thing is that during lockdown they are delivering, so I think I’ll be placing an order soon!

Milongas in Trouble Too

Obviously, given the nature of tango with its close embrace, milongas were among the first places to close, way back in March. It’s pretty much accepted that it may be a year before they open again, but there’s evidence that, as with the cafes and restaurants, some may not make it.

One of my favourites, Sueño Porteño, held a crowdfunding event a couple of weeks ago to raise funds to continue paying their employees. I was glad to contribute, and I hope their efforts pay off.

Someone else sent me a YouTube video suggesting that El Beso, a Buenos Aires fixture for a very long time, may also be closed for good. I watched the video, and although it was challenging to follow the rapid Spanish of the report, I never actually heard them say they were closed for good, just that they were closed because of Covid-19. I’m holding on to that, although it may be wishful thinking on my part.

Some people are suggesting that tango may come back in a different form, more smaller gatherings in smaller venues or even people’s homes. That’s better than having it die off altogether, of course, but the milongas are such an integral part of Buenos Aires culture that I can’t even imagine the city without them.

In this as with all things coronavirus related, I’m trying to be positive.

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Started a New Book!

As I told you a few weeks ago, I am leading an online group of people who are determined to get their books written, some after quite some time. Because part of the process is that they are held accountable for doing what they said they would do, I decided I should too. So I’m writing another book.

I actually began it last year when I was down here. It’s about a series of very old, very typical bars or cafes (in Buenos Aires they are the same thing) called the Bares Notables. Some of my friends enthusiastically agreed to join me in the “research”, which consisted of eating and drinking in several of the establishments! But I didn’t really follow through and all I have is a series of notes.

But now I have the motivation to actually write it, so I’m picking up where I left off. Three of my friends who will definitely want to help again with the research — Venetia, Joanna and Sally — are on vacation right now, so I might wait a couple of weeks for that part.

But while I was out for another purpose this week, I had lunch in one of the bars. It’s called Los Galgos, which means greyhounds, and there are pictures of those dogs all over the place. Curious to know why? Stay tuned — I’ll let you know after I interview the owner.

They did, however, have absolutely delicious bread. As a rule I don’t like Argentine bread, so this was very welcome. They make everything in house, and these were crusty on the outside and soft and light inside — yummy. I asked if I could buy some to take home, and the waiter said unfortunately no. But when he came back with my change, he brought these two in a paper bag — free of charge. Nice, eh? And very Argentine!