Christmas Day in Cuenca

TurkeyMichael had ordered two turkeys, as we were having 34 people for dinner Christmas Day. They arrived on Christmas Eve — complete with heads, feet and innards!

Susan and I handed the birds over to Michael to dress and went out to watch the parade!

Christmas Day itself was business as usual, as all the shops were open. But there were little shepherds, angels, Santas, Marys and Josephs and assorted figures popping up and wandering around all over town.

The dinner party was excellent. The guests were mainly from Canada and the U.S., people who live here either part of the time, like Susan and Michael, or fulltime. The first question everyone asks is, “When did you arrive?” Cuenca is certainly a haven for expats, and there were people there of approximately my own age and older — for a change!

I had a taste of what the altitude can do to the cooking process. I was making my pudim flan (the Portuguese version of creme caramel, which I have successfully made dozens of times), which  usually takes an hour to bake. It was in the oven for three hours, and it never did set! Nothing daunted, we bought some strawberries and Christmas bread, dowsed the lot with rum and poured the custard over the top. Voila — Cuenca trifle!

Christmas Eve Parade

This parade is a Cuenca tradition. It goes on all day, so you can pop in and out as you wish. Apparently all you need to do is dress up (either you or your vehicle) and join in! I never saw any marshals, and I never saw such an exuberant parade. Here are some selections from my photos of the event. Christmas in the Andes!

CuencaParadeNo1CuencaParadeNo2parade16parade12

 

 

 

Such a Full Second Day in Cuenca!

This was yesterday’s post, but it took me till this morning to assemble the pictures.

Well this was certainly a day of experiences and surprises!

First, Susan took me to a wonderful artisan market — remember, I’m the one who wasn’t going to Papado much shopping in Ecuador! But I read somewhere that the Ecuadoran handicrafts are excellent, and I can certainly attest to that. Because of Susan’s friendships with many of the local merchants, I got special treatment — and in some cases special prices. One elderly gentleman, ‘Papa’ to his friends, took us into the back of his small shop, and it turned out to be a huge area that was a veritable Alladin’s Cave of beautiful, brightly coloured woven hangings, shawls, jewellery, clothing and some things — like this mask he was wearing in the photo — that were really beyond description!

 

hatsDid you know that Panama Hats are made in Ecuador? The story goes that a bunch of them were sent as a gift to Panama in connection with the building of the Panama Canal, and when President Roosevelt went there they gave him one. When he wore it back home people asked him where he got it and he said Panama, so it became known as the Panama Hat — much to the chagrin of Ecuadorans of the time, although I’m sure they’re over it by now as they seem to take life in their stride. Today Susan and I went to this factory/museum of hats, and they were beautiful.

 

 

bowsThere are many ways to make Christmas tree decorations. This is how you make them when you run a hat factory! These bows are made from the woven pieces left over from the hats. Cool, eh?

 

 

 

 

 

The next thing was one of the surprises. While Susan and I were out and about, Michael called parade 2Susan to tell police badgeher there was “someparade 1thing going on with horses”, so we went to investigate. Turned out to be a group of people from the National Police (Ecuador’s version of the RCMP I think). As you can see from the picture, the horses were beautiful, and so were the riders! Handsome men and beautiful women, immaculately turned out in uniform, and very happy to pose for photos.

Apparently they were part of an important religious ceremony taking place outside one of the churches, and the place was so packed we had to take a different route home. They take their religion very seriously here (but not too solemnly) and Christmas is a time of ceremonies and fun.

After dinner I was treated to a wonderful Christmas concert in the ‘old’ cathedral. It was church2deconsecrated when they built the ‘new’ cathedral  — about 200 years ago — and they now use it for concerts. It has fabulous accoustics. The concert was excellent — and free!

So we thought we were done for the night, but when we came out into the garden square beside the cathedral we could hear music. It was a jazz band playing in the street! So we listened there for a bit, and when we moved on we heard more music from the other side of the square, and that turned out to be a group of army musicians playing in the bandstand!

As I said, a day of experiences and surprises! Tomorrow is Christmas Eve, and when apparently there is the mother of all parades here, so I’m looking forward to that. I’ll keep you posted!

 

First Day in Cuenca

Well, I arrived safely in Cuenca last night, after a 3-hour drive high up into the Andes. Even though I couldn’t see anything as it was dark, I kept saying to myself, “I can’t believe I’m in the Andes!” I never thought I’d find myself here. Orlando, my driver, explained that we had to drive up to 4,000 metres and then come down (quickly!) to 2,800 metres, where Cuenca lies in a valley. (Glad I took the altitude sickness pills!)

Susan and Michael have a lovely, typically Ecuadorean apartment, which they have filled with Paradebeautiful local art. It is across the square from the biggest of the 52 — count ’em, 52 — churches in Cuenca! This morning we were treated to my first parade, which I’m assured happens every day until Christmas. Aren’t these little angels a treat?

The church itself has my sketchbook vibrating! Tomorrow, for sure.

 

 

 

 

We took the double-decker bus tour this afternoon. I took this shot to show Cuenca AboveCuencain its mountain valley, and Susan assured me I had actually come up over those mountains last night — maybe it’s just as well it was dark!

Tonight we are going to a Solstice party — never been to one of those before, so it should be fun.

I’m not there yet!

I’m still in Toronto, but only 7 more sleeps till I’m off!

This blog will be my way of keeping in touch with my friends and family while I am on my grand adventure in South America. I won’t be sending you any updates or emails, so just pop over whenever you feel like finding out what I’m up to.

If you want to comment on any of the posts, please do. I’d be happy to know you are following me.

So the next time I post will be from Cuenca, Ecuador, where I’ll be spending Christmas with Susan and Michael. Can’t wait!

Hasta pronto!