Summer Has Definitely Arrived in Buenos Aires

Well, summer has definitely reached Buenos Aires! Temperatures are in the high twenties, and even thirty for a short time. I hadn’t expected that for a couple of weeks yet, but I’ll take it nevertheless!

I have settled into a work routine, so haven’t been out and about as much during the day. I do, however, continue my habit of taking an early morning walk, as I do in Toronto. I don’t stop for coffee here, but just walk. I’ve been exploring the area and have found new ways to get to familiar places, and new streets I hadn’t been down at all.

I haven’t taken many photographs, or even done any sketching. But one of these days I’ll get in the mood again and start — I’ve found sketching isn’t something you can force, or when I do it never turns out right.

palm-treeYesterday morning on my walk I passed this tall palm tree. I love palm trees, and there is quite a variety of them here. The fun thing about this one this morning was that there was a big flock of green parakeets flying around the top and having a full blown conversation! That put a big smile on my face. I took this photograph later in the day, so you can’t see them. Maybe I’ll be luckier next time.

 

 

 

iron-doorI’ve always been fascinated by doors. I don’t know if it’s the mystery of not knowing what’s behind them, but I always take note of them in my travels. I must say the most beautiful doors I’ve seen anywhere are in Madrid, but Buenos Aires comes a close second. At some point I may do a collection of photos and sketches just of doors, but in the meantime here’s one example. This lovely black wrought iron door isn’t on a special building. It’s just an ordinary apartment building near me. Isn’t it beautiful?

 

 

fernetOne thing I’ve started doing in the late afternoon is going out with my notebook and just writing my thoughts and observations on my daily life here. Sometimes I just find a shady seat in the park, and sometimes I find a cafe and have either coffee or a cool drink. On this day I had a very popular drink around here called Fernet, which is always drunk with Coca Cola. It took me a while to try it because I don’t like Coca Cola, but I found that it’s not so bad when it’s spiked with Fernet! Now “Fernet con Coca” is one of my favourite afternoon indulgences.

 

 

Last night I went with some friends to a huge tango party — in the street! I have to edit my videos, so I’ll tell you about that next time. Stay tuned!

Legal Tender?

Today I had funny experience. I went to the supermarket to pick up a few things, and when I went to pay I had to have Pesos $2.50 in change. But the cashier didn’t have change, and neither did I. So she asked someone to get some, but when he brought back the coins, there still wasn’t the right change for me.

img_3823So instead of the 50 centavos, I was presented with 2 pesos and these three candies! I just laughed and took them.

But even funnier — I went to the BA Expats coffee chat (a group I used to be part of last time) and when I told them this story they told me it was quite common. In fact, they used to keep candies in the till just in case they didn’t have enough change. Apparently it’s illegal now, but people still do it and nobody minds.

Only in Argentina!

First Day Back at Work!

Well, my vacation is officially over and today was my first day back at work. It’s challenging, as there is so much to do out there in Buenos Aires, but I am committed to working on my projects and my client work, so needs must.

Tuesday is usually the day I post to my blog, Communi-keys for Accountants, and I’ve been thinking for quite a while about trying some videos on the blog to see what my readers think. So I have an idea to tie in my Argentina experience with some advice for accountants, so I think I’ll venture out to the park tomorrow morning and see how a selfie video works. I’ll post the link here so you can have a look at it, even if you’re not an accountant.

Tonight I had my first full blown home cooked dinner — pork chop with fried onion and a boiled potato. All washed down with a nice glass of Malbec of course! I’m not used to gas cooking, and personally I always find it tricky cooking in someone else’s kitchen anyway (those who know me well are probably thinking I find it tricky cooking even in my own kitchen!), so I’m glad to have this first one under my belt.

I don’t have any photos for this post, as I haven’t been very diligent in moving them over from my iPhone. I guess I’ll have to make that a mini project and set some time aside to do it. Maybe tomorrow.

Tomorrow late afternoon I’m going to the BA Expats coffee chat, which I used to attend weekly last time I was here. I’ll be interested to see how many familiar faces are still there. I’ve also just signed up for a couple of InterNations events, so I’ll soon be in the swing of it again. Can’t wait!

Vacation over — well almost

Well it’s Saturday, November 26, and my vacation is officially over. Pauline left yesterday, and I will be back at work on Monday. Because I’ve been on vacation, I haven’t been very diligent about posting to the blog, but I will do better now.

The weather has been fantastic — until today! When we arrived it was not quite summer weather, but still warm and sunny. Then last weekend summer suddenly arrived, and it has been HOT and sunny ever since. Today, they were calling for rain and thunder, and we got it!

I’ve spent the morning at home, moving things around in my apartment. I didn’t like any of the knickknacks that were around the place, so I’ve bundled them all into an empty cupboard and put out the few little souvenirs I brought — something from Canada, Portugal, Scotland and Ecuador, as well as my picture of Felix and me. That makes it feel more like home, and I plan to add a few more small things as I go along. I like the apartment very much, although a coat of paint wouldn’t go amiss! (I won’t be doing that!)

Here are a few random photos taken over the past couple of weeks.

felicesfiestasIt’s hard to realize it’s only a month till Christmas when the sun is splitting the trees, but here’s a Happy Holidays message I came across the other day.

 

 

 

 

jacarandajacarandasketchThe jacaranda trees are beautiful this time of year, and they are lasting quite well. This one looked nice beside its green neighbours, but some of the downtown parks and plazas are even more lovely. This is just around the corner from my apartment — photo and my sketch of the same tree.

 

evita-family-mausoleumevita-plaqueIn the famous Recoleta cemetery, this is the family mausoleum of Eva Peron, as well as a couple of the plaques dedicated to her personally. It’s easy to find this among all the other, as it always has flowers.

I’ll leave it here for now. Tonight I’m going to a party with Cecilia and her sister. I’ve met these people before and they are all great fun, so I’m looking forward to it.

Hope you enjoy these pictures, and feel free to leave comments.

I’m here!

It’s now Monday, and I have been here for six days. My friend Pauline from Toronto is with me until Friday, so this is vacation time for me. I will get back to work on Monday.

panama-canal

On the way down, we had a 9-hour layover in Panama, so my taxi guy, Luis, took us to see the Panama Canal. Quite fascinating as we watched two huge tankers going through the gigantic locks. Here’s a photo of the two of us there. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize it is the rainy season in Panama and it poured all day! Oh well, as we say in Scotland, holiday rain isn’t so wet!

 

Summer is almost here in Buenos Aires, although not fully yet. But it’s sunny and in the low twenties, so nice for walking — and we have walked!

On our first day we went up to see Plaza San Martin, and we found a rolled up red carpet and some Canadian and Argentine flags. Apparently we just missed the prime minister’s visit!mario

My friend Cecilia took us to a party at her friend Mario’s house a couple of nights ago and that was lots of fun. It’s always good to get to meet local people. This is Mario giving us his traditional Argentine asado.

 

 

 

I have some catching up to do and I’ll do that over the next few days. But I am just so-oo-oo happy to be back in my beautiful Buenos Aires!

 

 

Last Post — for Now

Well, the great 2016 Argentina adventure is over. I came home last weekend, and I’m not happy! Actually, I probably feel even worse than I would have done, because I’m sick. Seems to be a recurring pattern for me in recent years, but I’ve come home with a nasty case of bronchitis and I’ve given myself the task this week of getting well. So I’ve done no work, and I’m only doing this because I want to round everything up for those who have been following me through the blog.

I finally stitched the videos together, and here they are.

Christmas in Cuenca.

This is how the good people of Cuenca celebrate Christmas as a community. Lots of fun.

Futbol!

Great souvenir of a night I’ll never forget.

Tango

My tango lessons with Alejandro were a highlight of my whole adventure. This little video was shot after I had my last lesson, and I must say I’ve watched it many times already because it instantly transports me back to this place I love so much.

Thank you again for following me through this blog. I hope I managed to convey just a fraction of how much I enjoyed my time in Argentina, and maybe even inspired some of you to put it on your travel list.

I miss you, my beautiful Buenos Aires. I’ll be back just as soon as I can.

Last Day!

Well, it’s ten o’clock at night, and I’ve just come back from dinner at my local restaurant. My packing is almost done, except for the things that can’t be packed until the morning.

I am feeling very sad, as you can imagine. I know I am going to miss Argentina terribly. A friend took me to breakfast the other morning and she asked me why I was going home. I said because my three months are up, and she said, “I know, but you don’t want to go home, so why don’t you just stay here?”

I’m not there, but I have to say it did give me pause.

IMG_3287Anyway, I had my last tango lesson yesterday and I did make a little video. Uploading from here is v-e-r-y slow, so I’m going to wait till I get back to Toronto. Stay tuned. In the meantime, here is a selfie with my lovely tango teacher, Alejandro.

 

 

 

YoniAnd while I’m about it, here is a selfie with Yoni, the young waiter at my local restaurant. Absolutely charming — as are most Argentine men I have met!

When I get home I will post the tango video and do one last post, and I’ll send an email to make sure everyone gets it. I have thoroughly enjoyed sharing my Argentina adventure with you all, and thanks to everyone who has written to say they enjoyed it too.

Hasta luego!

The final stretch

It’s Monday morning, and I’m just waiting to leave for a late breakfast with a friend. Sadly, I’m now into the final stretch, and it’s a time of “lasts”.

As I walked around the artisan market on Saturday, it was tempting to buy everything in sight because it was my last opportunity. I resisted, though, having already bought enough to start my own artisan market when I get home!

Yesterday I spent Easter with Cecilia and her family and I couldn’t have been in a better place. There were about fifteen of us, including her family and some friends, and it was a happy, noisy gathering. My Spanish got a workout, and I’m happy to report that I was able to follow most of the conversations even when I wasn’t part of them. Of course my own Spanish improved after copious quantities of Malbec!

I spent some time talking to an elderly lady called Maria, and I was a bit perturbed that I was having trouble understanding her Spanish. Then I found out she was Italian — and just as my Spanish is liberally salted with Portuguese, so was hers with Italian! That is so-oo Buenos Aires!

I’m not working this week, as I want to make the most of these last few days — I’m already plotting next year’s time! I will blog again at least once before I go.

Tomorrow I have my last tango lesson, and I’m hoping to have video — so stay tuned!

A Night at the Opera

The first time I came to Buenos Aires I took a tour through its famous Teatro Colon. Ever since then I’ve hoped to see a performance there, and tonight I got my wish. I went with a group of people from InterNations to see a production of Beatrix Cenci, which I had never heard of.

Screen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.04.10 PMScreen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.05.17 PMScreen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.05.26 PMIt is truly a magnificent theatre, both inside and out as you can see from these photos (which I didn’t take, needless to say!)

The most amazing thing about Teatro Colon, though, is that it has no sound system as we know it. There is not a single microphone in the whole place. The accoustics are completely natural, coming from the way the theatre was built. The effect is wonderful. We are so used to hearing voices always electronically amplified, and this is so different. The voices all projected beautifully to all parts of the theatre. There was one scene where a cleaning cart was wheeled onto the stage, and you could actually hear the wheels turning.

The singing was excellent, and the staging beautiful.

Having said all that, the opera itself was the worst bloody rubbish I’ve seen in a long time. From the minute the curtains opened until they closed, I had no idea what was going on. Lots of slow walking and breast beating — and several totally naked men, which I never did quite figure out. Several times I just sat back and looked around, enjoying the theatre itself and ignoring what was going on onstage!

Culture is hugely subsidized in Argentina, and I paid only about Cdn.$14 for my seat. If only I could be here next month to hear Don Giovanni! I would like to go there again next time I’m here, but I’ll pay more attention to what I’m going to see first.

PalmSundayOn a different note, today was Palm Sunday. I was walking along Avenida Santa Fe, and several people were selling olive branches, rather than the palm branches I’m familiar with. I realized it was because there was a church nearby. By the time I reached it, it was clearly standing room only, and many people were standing outside on the steps, holding their olive branches and listening to the mass broadcast from inside. I joined them and listened for a while, but it was hard for me to follow.

Here is my little olive branch, now standing on my coffee table in a glass.

 

Futbol!!!

One thing I’ve wanted to do in Buenos Aires, but didn’t think I’d be able to, is go to a soccer match (or ‘futbol’) to see Boca Juniors at the famous La Bombonera stadium, known by fans as La Cancha. I’m thrilled that I was actually able to go last Monday night.

Daniela is a huge fan of Boca and goes regularly to the game by herself (brave woman!) I asked if I could go with her, and although she was willing there was a little problem. You see, only members can get into the stadium on game night — you can’t just buy a ticket. I think this was originally because of the trouble with opposing supporters, so now there are 70,000 people in the stadium, and all Boca fans!

Screen Shot 2016-03-17 at 10.22.26 AMCecilia found a source of a ticket online and did the deal. Well, it turned out not to be an actual ticket (for the above reason), but somebody’s member card which he was renting to me for the evening! Daniela pays 230 Pesos a month for four games; this cost me 750 Pesos for one game! Not a bad business to be in. Anyway, here is Mr. Zapata’s card, which I used to pass through two turnstiles without a problem. Viva Zapata!

Reaching that point was already an adventure, as the crowd was shoulder-to-shoulder right across the street. Daniela leaned forward and yelled in my ear, “Welcome to La Cancha!” Suddenly a shout went up saying a pregnant woman was coming through with a little boy, and we should let her through — only in Argentina!

Gotta get those banners up no matter what!

Gotta get those banners up no matter what!

Not sure where this guy thought he was going!

Not sure where this guy thought he was going!

I guess the kids see better when they're halfway up the fence!

I guess the kids see better when they’re halfway up the fence!

I’m currently working on the videos to put on a separate page, and I have quite a few I shot at the game, but here are some still shots to give you an idea.

When the Boca players came onto the field the place erupted — shouting and singing and pumping fists. That went on for the whole game, but when Boca scored in extra time to win the game, I can’t even begin to describe the noise and the atmosphere. It’s definitely something I’ll never forget.

DanielaAndMeHere we are — two rowdy fans having a great time!

 

 

 

 

 

PaperNewspaper report from next day — and I WAS THERE!!!