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Catching Up on a Rainy Day

We’ve had thunderstorms all night, with very heavy rain, and so far it looks as if it’s on for the day. I had plans to go to an afternoon milonga, but if this keeps up I’ll be staying home.

In the meantime, it’s a good day to catch up with my blog. Not in any particular order, here’s some of what’s been happening for me in beautiful Buenos Aires over the past week or so.

Bares Notables Research

La Poesia is one of my favourites of these lovely old bars, and in fact it might top my list. That’s because it has an old, traditional Buenos Aires kind of feel to it, and the food is excellent. You can also often be unexpectedly entertained, sometimes by wandering professionals, sometimes — like this time — by enthusiastic amateurs. The pianist came up to our table and asked if we would like to sing and he would accompany us. We assured him he didn’t want to hear any of us sing, but we would happily listen. This lady took up the challenge and we thought she did well.

La Biela

Last Sunday was one of those glorious spring days that felt like summer. I met up with a bunch of friends on the patio of La Biela, a favourite summer spot for almost everyone. After quaffing some wine and chatting, Venetia, Sasha and I went up to wander around the artesan market, where we all managed to get some money spent.

On the way back, we passed La Biela again and came upon this man singing opera. We listened to him for quite a while, although I just videoed his last song. These ladies at the table beside him were clearly Italian (many Porteños are of Italian heritage) and joined in heartily especially in the Neapolitan love songs.

Free Concert at the CCK

Last night Venetia and I went to a beautiful concert at the Central Cultural Kirchner, known as the CCK. I didn’t take any photos, but simply sat back and drank in the wonderful music. It was the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra, who are always a pleasure. They had a guest clarinetist, who raised the roof with the last piece, a blend of classical music and jazz. Even the other musicians were mesmerized with his amazing clarinet solos.

And as always, I’m amazed that we can enjoy this calibre of concert absolutely free!

Well I see it is kind of drying up just a bit outside, so I must take advantage of this lull to go out and buy some groceries. The milonga is still in doubt, but I do have to eat!

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Exciting Publishing News!

I’m so excited about this news I have to tell you! Yesterday I had a meeting with Argentinidades, an Argentine book publishing company. I first met them in April 2018 at the huge Buenos Aires Book Fair, where I gave them a copy of Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango. They showed a lot of interest, but nothing happened after the fair.

But a few weeks ago I had an email from them, asking to meet with me to talk about the book. I have to say the meeting was hilarious, because Juan’s English was barely as good as my Spanish, which is pretty good for everyday life, but challenging for a business meeting. He kept hitting his forehead and exclaiming, “Ay, my English!”, while I did the same while muttering, “Ay, mi español!” Funny.

But the outcome is that they are going to translate the book, publish and distribute it in Spanish throughout South America! Not only that, but when I told them about the new book I’m writing about the Bares Notables, he jumped on that too.

I am adding two new chapters to the first book, as I want to make it a second edition. I need to have that finished and the manuscript of the second one finished by February, so that they can do the translation and get the books ready to promote at the 2020 Book Fair. How exciting is that?!

But there’s more! (I sound like one of those late night knife commercials!) They are kicking around a new book project about Buenos Aires, and they have invited me to be one of the authors on the team! That one hasn’t been finalized yet, so it’s fingers, toes and eyes crossed. It won’t make me rich, but it will help build my reputation as someone who writes about Argentina with love in her heart, which is what I want.

Couldn’t wait to tell you. Tonight we are doing another Bares Notables research dinner, so we will be hoisting a glass of champagne to celebrate!

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Vive la France!

There’s a big French cultural event going on in Buenos Aires over the next couple of weeks, and Venetia, Cecilia and I decided to take in the market at the French Embassy on Sunday. It turned out to be a beautiful early spring day, and the crowd was huge.

Even at an event like this, French food is always a treat. For a quick lunch on the move, I had an open-faced brie sandwich on yummy bread with walnuts and raisins; Venetia had a terrine of three different game meats; and Cecilia had a salmon mousse. All delicious.

Delicious chocolates and other goodies

It wasn’t all food. This lady was doing lovely pottery dishes

There was no shortage of sweets either. We all purchased little squares of rich, dark chocolate, alhough I was very strong and avoided the waffles!

The embassy itself is open on this one day every year for public tours, but the line-ups are so long it’s ridiculous. I did plan, nonetheless, to show up at 9.30 am and wait in line, but I have a rotten cold and just didn’t feel up to it. Next year!

I think I’ve said this somewhere before, but in a city renowned for its wonderful architecture, the French Embassy is one of the most beautiful. I can wander round it looking up so long I end up with a crick in my neck!

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I Can’t Believe I Did That

   My friend Venetia is back from her long vacation in Europe, so on Saturday we spent the day wandering around downtown, enjoying the spring weather. When it came time for lunch, we happened upon a lovely bodegón, the Argentine equivalent of a French bistro.

Love the sign pointing to the washroom!

When we went inside we were delighted! It was classic old Buenos Aires, down to the furniture, the way they displayed the bottles and the tiles on the floor. It also had a distinct tango vibe, with pictures of the old tango masters on the walls. When we had been there about ten minutes, and before we had begun lunch, a young guy sat down and started to play the bandoneón — that soulful, concertina-like instrument that gives tango its distinctive melancholy sound. Well, that was the icing on the cake. Venetia pronounced herself happy to be back in Buenos Aires.

Venetia took these photos and the video, so you can probably see the improvement from my usual ones!

But my feet were itching to dance tango!

Along the wall were several tables, most of which were occupied by groups of people. But the one closest to us was occupied by a man on his own. He looked to be in his sixties. I don’t know what got into me, but I gave him the classic mirada, the flirty glance that’s used in the milonga to entice a man to ask you to dance! He looked a bit startled – not surprisingly — and before I could think twice, I pointed to the small space in front of the bandoneón and said, “Queria bailar tango?” (Would you like to dance tango?)

Venetia nearly fell off her chair!

The man smiled and said he was sorry but he didn’t dance tango, but he thanked me very much for asking. I looked at Venetia and said, “I can’t believe I did that!” She said she thought it was very brave of me, but in retrospect I just thought it was a bit daft. But I’m sure the man will dine out on it for a while — I’m sitting in this bodegón minding my own business and this crazy woman asks me to dance!

Venetia’s steak was tender and juicy, but unfortunately mine was tough as old leather and I couldn’t eat it. I didn’t complain, but just told the waitress it was very tough. When the bill came there was no charge for mine. That’s good customer service, so I would go back.

But I won’t ask any more strange men to dance!

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Research at the Black Cat

These are the spices that create the wonderful aroma

We had a fun research lunch at El Gato Negro on Thursday. We were five: Lina, Joanna, Gayle, Venetia and me.

El Gato Negro is one of the old, classic Bares Notables, and it’s typical of old Buenos Aires. It looks small when you go in the front door, but if you keep walking past the bar you find it opens up into another seating space at the back. Apparently there is more upstairs, but I haven’t ventured there yet.

We pushed two very small tables together to accommodate us, and it was definitely cozy. But the place was packed, so that’s the best we could do.

 

Venetia’s fish fortunately tasted better than it looked!

Not quite sure what to call this beef dish in English but it was yummy.

Joanna and I had lomo salteado (kind of a stir

You can tell Lina was happy with her choice of salad.

fry/stew of filet) which was delicious. Lina was very noble and had a salad. Venetia’s fish left something to be desired in terms of presentation, but she said it was very good. Gayle asked for a croque madame, but they brought a croque monsieur and she sent it back to have the eggs removed! Everyone was happy with the food.

El Gato Negro is also famous for fresh spices, not only in the food but available for purchase, as well as a huge variety of teas. As a result, when you open the door you are enveloped in a delicious aroma. I’ve bought tea there before, and I’m always tempted by the spices, but as I’m not an ambitious cook I think the effort would be wasted. But Lina bought a special Moroccan spice which she was dying to try.

I have the email address of the manager, and I’m going to set up an interview sometime soon. Lovely little place, and everyone would be happy to go back.

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Bar Notable “New Brighton”

New Brighton, Bar Notable of Buenos Aires

This is a Bar Notable of Buenos Aires? It looks more like a high-end gentlemen’s club in England. There’s good reason for that, and it goes back to the place’s history, but I’ll talk about that in another post.

It’s much bigger than it looks from the outside, as the whole space is long and narrow. The dark wood paneling is lustrous and elegant. The mirrors, of which there are many, are polished to within an inch of their lives. The table linen is blindingly white. Two stag heads are mounted on the wall, but even these are understated in an English kind of way.

Lina and I select a bottle of wine. When the waiter brings it, instead of asking one person to taste it, in the usual way, he asks us both. I wonder what would happen if one liked it and the other didn’t! A nice touch though.

Lina selects a risotto of spinach and smoked salmon. When she takes her first forkful, her eyes close and she utters an ecstatic “Mmmmmm!” I can’t count the number of times she pronounces it delicious before it’s done.

I have the Spanish omelette. In Canada they always seem to smother them in tomato sauce, but here they serve them as they do in Spain—stuffed with potatoes and no sauce needed.  It’s one of my favourite dishes and the one I often choose in Bares Notables. It gives me a point of comparison to see who does it best. So far it’s a tie between New Brighton and Los Galgos. This one is very large, and before serving the waiter asks if I would like to have it cut in two. I do. I’m sure he knows from experience I will want to take half home with me.

I know some people think omelettes should be runny, but I’m not one of them, so I always ask for it cozido (cooked). When he cuts into it, he notices it is quite liquid, so he thinks I would probably like it cooked a little more. I agree. Pro-active — I like that.

Before leaving, I ask to speak to the manager, Mariela. I explain what I am doing, and we arrange for me to go in by myself next Wednesday at 11 am for coffee, when she will talk to me about New Brighton. Before the lunchtime crowd arrives I will also have free rein to sketch. I’m looking forward to it.

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Spring Has Sprung in Buenos Aires!

Yesterday I had lunch with my friend Lina in a restaurant five minutes from me that I’d never been in. The food was yummy and the bill reasonable. I will be back.

Afterwards, we wandered round the artisans fair and bought a few things. Here’s a picture of the people enjoying an early spring day in the park. Even though winter has been very mild, as far as I’m concerned a non-winter, it will still be nice to feel the weather growing warmer!

An early spring day in Plaza Francia

Lina had a salad with mussels

I had a plump, gooey burrata with salad

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Bares Notables Research—Los Galgos

Los Galgos is one of my favourite places to have lunch or merienda, but this was the first time I’d gone with the book research in mind. I was joined by Lina, Joanna and Joanna’s husband Gary.

Galgos means greyhound, and the motif is used very effectively on the menu, as well as in the rest of the decor. I took a couple of photos of the inside, but they don’t really show the greyhound theme well. I’m going to go back there on my own and chat with the manager. I’ll go when it’s not too busy and then I can sketch and take better photos.

The food is very good. I like Spanish omelettes, so I eat them a lot and can compare. So far, the one at Los Galgos is the best. The others had meatballs, some sort of steamed dish that contained fish and veggies, and milanesa. Milanesa is a very popular “cheap and cheerful” dish here. It’s a flattened piece of beef or veal or chicken, breaded and fried. Gary’s came a caballo, or on horseback, which is what they call it when it has fried eggs on top—I was familiar with that term as they also use it in Portugal. Everyone proclaimed their food delicious.

In fact, all in all, Los Galgos gets top marks from everyone.

I haven’t scheduled next week’s events yet, but everyone is looking forward to them.

 

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More ‘Research’

Starting on my right, Lola, Gail, Gillian, Lolly, Lina, Wendy, Joanna — the usual suspects!

Last night I went with seven chicas on another research dinner for my book. This time it was Caffe Tabac, which I hadn’t even realize was a Bar Notable. It’s in a different part of the city, which is good because I don’t want to go only to the ones in San Telmo — even though they are the best.

I’ll have to go back to take photos of the place, as we were kind of hemmed in at a corner table. It’s sort of mid-century modern in style, with lots of light wood paneling and lovely donut chandeliers.

 

Yummy canapes

The food was OK, but nothing to write home about. Ditto the service, although our waiter was nice. But we all agreed the canapes were delicious, and in fact some of us had little room for dinner!

 

 

 

I don’t indulge in cocktails often, but as the others were I decided to go for a Bellini, which made a nice change. We also ordered a different type of red wine called Bonarda, which is often blended with Malbec, and I quite liked it.

Some of the others had been to Tabac for lunch or merienda and all said that was better. So my plan is to go back when the weather gets warmer and sit outside for merienda. I’ll take more photos and maybe do a sketch. I also hope to interview the manager, who wasn’t there tonight.

Next event is on Friday for lunch. I’ll have to start watching my waistline!

 

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Something Exciting!

Yesterday I received an email from an Argentine publishing company I contacted when I was down here last year. They want to meet to explore how they might publish, distribute or otherwise represent Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango! in the South American market. When I told them I was writing a new book about the Bares Notables, they were interested in that too — which, of course, is even more incentive to get the book written.

I hope to meet with them soon to explore the possibilities, and I’ll keep you posted.

By the way, if you haven’t yet read Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango!, why not click on the image to the right and order it now?