Two years ago today I arrived in Argentina, and today I celebrated my anniversary over lunch with Venetia, Gillian and Joanna. We went to an open air restaurant in the grounds of the Museum of Decorative Arts, and it was lovely.
The first photo is the main gate, with yet another lovely jacaranda outside.
Turns out that November 24 is Argentine Wine Day — the very day I arrived. What a coincidence!
We had champagne to celebrate my special day and it was lovely. Gracias chicas!
Next day, Wednesday 25. This is a mourning dove, and I just found out on Google that it takes about 14 days to hatch their eggs, and then the chicks stay in the next for another two weeks, I guess she’s here for the long haul!
Last night we had thunderstorms and heavy rain all night and she sat there patiently on her eggs. Although I’m not keen on these birds (I don’t care what people say, I still say they are pigeons!) I do have a reluctant admiration for her. So maybe I’ll just enjoy watching all this nature happening on my window sill!
Last week I posted about a lunch I had with Venetia at a lovely Italian restaurant called Il Sorpasso. On Friday night, I went again with Venetia, Gillian and Lina, this time for dinner. It looks even more beautiful at night. We went at 8 pm, which is very early for Buenos Aires, so we had the place to ourselves until just before we left.
After dinner, there was another Covid milestone — Venetia, Gillian and I went home on the bus! Honestly, we were giddy as we waited at the bus stop — I never thought I’d be so excited to get on a bus. As you can see, we did observe the protocols — each on a separate seat and all wearing masks!
As we move into summer here in Argentina, there are more and more signs (at least in Buenos Aires) of some semblance of normality. Last night there was another.
Our friend Joanna Maddox performed again at Notorious, a lovely little night club just a twenty-minute walk from me. This time, in deference to Covid protocol, it took place in the garden at the back — which I didn’t even know existed! It’s a great venue for concerts, although it doesn’t have a lot of seating capacity — and I hope there will be other events there over the summer.
Venetia and I arrived quite early, and she made this video while Joanna was doing sound checks. Thanks, as always, Venetia.
Joanna was in top form! She even called on a friend who happened to be sitting at our table, who is one of her tango partners at the milonga and they danced together. The music wasn’t tango, but the dancing most certainly was!
This is the time of year when beautiful Buenos Aires becomes even more beautiful when the flowering trees blossom. Here are a couple from my walk this morning. The red one may or may not be a ceibo tree, which is Argentina’s national flower. It’s very similar to another one, so I’m not sure, but it sure was pretty.
Everybody’s favourite is the jacaranda. Every November they blossom all over the city, like purple painted ribbons along the street and bright splashes of colour in the parks. I particularly like this one because it stands against one of the city’s typical apartment buildings with wrought iron railings.
Today I went with Venetia to San Telmo, where the Sunday artesan market has reopened. Since they can only line one side of the street because of social distancing, they have spread out along other side streets too, which made for a lot of walking.
We had lunch at Il Sorpasso, a beautiful Italian restaurant with a cool Italian style patio. The food was excellent, which is good because we’re going there again with some girlfriends for dinner on Friday night.
These photos will give you an idea of how beautiful the courtyard is.
Tonight I set out to have dinner in the cafe where I usually have breakfast, Café Bogotá. But I got there just after eight and it was closing — I guess they are still not on regular time yet, as most Porteños don’t usually go out until nine.
Anyway, it led me to a place on the other side of the square, called Los Inmortales, The Immortals, which is apparently quite an old and well known place. I didn’t realize they were famous for their pizza, or I would have had it, but instead I had milanesa de ternera, breaded veal. Milanesa is a popular dish in Buenos Aires and I enjoy it once it a while. It’s always enormous though, so I have tomorrow’s lunch in hand!
The walls were covered with old photos of the city, and it was fun trying to recognize them as many are quite different today. I don’t think Los Inmortales will become a favourite for me, but I will give their pizza a try.
I just came back from having late morning coffee at La Biela, and lo and behold the artesan fair is back in Plaza Francia — cause for celebration indeed! Not as many stalls as usual, but enough to make it feel almost normal. I walked along the path welcoming them all back!
I felt compelled to buy something to celebrate (as if I needed an excuse!) so I bought this little skirt. After than I found my usual lady I buy little summer skirts from and we greeted each other like old friends. I told her I hadn’t brought much money because I didn’t know they were there, and she said if I wanted anything I could just take it and pay her next weekend — how nice was that? Just like last night at El Sanjuanino, it felt good to be greeted like an old friend!
Tonight was great! First I met with Venetia and Sally at La Biela at 8 pm, where we sat out on the terrace and drank a glass of champagne to celebrate the results of the US election. I didn’t take any photos there, but it was lovely to enjoy the summer evening.
Then around 9.30 pm we decided we wanted to eat. The food at La Biela is mediocre at best, so we walked down to one of our favourite haunts, El Sanjuanino, which serves the best empanadas in town. They also do good tamales, which is what we all had this time. They had tables outside, but it was starting to be a bit cool for that, so we went inside — and were greeted like long lost friends by our favourite waiter, Damian. It was lovely to be back there.
The President’s message on Friday said that Buenos Aires was in good shape and they are loosening the restrictions a bit more. The kids are going back to school, but we are still not allowed to use the buses. But going out for dinner is back on my social schedule, which I love. I wonder where I’ll eat tonight!
More than a year ago, I went with one of my groups to see the Palacio San Martin, one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. After the tour, I sat down in the lovely green square in front to do a sketch, but it was early winter and too cold to sit. (Here is what I managed that day.) I’ve been promising myself since that day that I would go back and finish it, and today I finally did.
It’s a good half hour walk there, so I was happy to sit down to do the sketch. Afterwards I walked across the street to Rapanui, a place whose ice cream is legendary. I sat at a little table outside and ate passionfruit and kiwi ice cream — bliss!
I had planned to take a taxi home — we’re still not allowed to use the buses — but started to walk and ended up walking all the way home. It’s 4.1 km both ways and I’ll admit to being shattered when I arrived, but now I’ve had a wee rest I feel ready for what’s next.
I’m meeting Venetia for a glass of wine at La Biela at 8 pm and then going for a bite to eat somewhere. My friend Lina said recently that now that we can eat out again, she is doing it every day as she is so fed up with her own cooking. Ditto.
