Productive Afternoon in the Plaza

Yesterday was one of those perfect days when the sun was shining in a blue sky with absolutely no humidity, and the temperature was in the high twenties. I decided to go down to Plaza Rodriguez Peña, a lovely square that’s quite near me but for some reason I don’t go to often. I took my sketching stuff with me as well as my Spanish binder, thinking I’d decide when I got there. It was so beautiful I did both!

First I did the sketch in the park part of the plaza, and then I moved over to in front of this lovely building called Palacio Sarmiento, which belongs to the Ministry of Education. I never get tired of all the gorgeous buildings in Buenos Aires! I sat in front of it and let it inspire me as I worked on my irregular verbs!

Sorry the photo of the sketch is a bit weird, but I’m nearly at the end of this sketch book and it won’t lie flat any more.  I’ve been a bit lazy about sketching, so I’m happy I was finally able to produce something!

Isn’t this Beautiful?

This lovely azalea plant has rewarded my patience. When I bought it, several months ago, it was covered with pink blossoms, but after they died off it had no more flowers for literally months. It always looked healthy, but just green. And why do you buy azaleas? For the flowers of course!

Anyway, just last week I noticed a whole bunch of buds, and now they are opening up into beautiful flowers. Strangely, one side of the plant seems to be way ahead of the other so I’m hoping I get a chance to see all the flowers out at the same time. The other, even stranger, thing is that the branch on the left is sporting what look like white flowers coming! They weren’t there before so I’ve no idea how this happened. Of course, I’m no gardener, so it might be quite common and I wouldn’t know! Anyway, I’m enjoying them. Maybe I’ll post another one when the white blossoms come out fully.

The State of Covid-19 in Argentina

Since people often ask me what’s happening in Argentina with regard to the pandemia, I thought I’d do a brief update.

As background, Argentina has a total population of 44.9 million, about 15 million of whom live in what you might call Greater Buenos Aires, ie the city and suburbs. There is also a Province of Buenos Aires, but the city is a separate entity, kind of like Washington DC or Mexico DF. Its official designation is Ciudad Autónima de Buenos Aires (CABA).

In the early part of the pandemia, the cases were highly concentrated in the city, but that has gradually changed, and now there are more cases and “outbreaks” in cities in other parts of the country. They are still quite restricted, and just yesterday there was a riot in Formosa Province against a new lockdown.

In Buenos Aires we feel very lucky, because other than the ubiquitous masks, things look surprisingly normal. It’s summer, of course, and outdoor eating is the norm. But restaurants, bars and cafes are all open, with protocols, although sadly quite a number closed their doors permanently as they couldn’t wait out the lockdown. Unfortunately, downtown is a sad sight with all the shuttered shops that couldn’t make it, but I think when the tourists come back that will help a lot.

My tanguera friend Susan tells me there are several outdoor milongas operating and she is dancing almost every night! Apparently they are operating legally, with protocols, but for some reason there’s not much publicity about them. Maybe the authorities are not encouraging tango yet, but not completely banning them either. That’s very Argentine!

As for the long-awaited vaccine, the term “roll out” would be a misnomer! So far I think they have vaccinated a total of about 1.5 million people, many of whom are emergency and essential workers — not to mention those who jumped the queue because they were cronies of high level government people, including the Health Minister, who had to resign. That’s also very Argentine, although it has also happened in a number of other countries.

In the Province, over 70s are now getting their jabs, but so far in the city it’s over 80s, so they’re not quite down to my age group yet! Hopefully soon. Most of the doses seem to be the Russian Sputnik variety, although I keep hearing we’re getting the Astra Zeneca/Oxford one soon. Like most people, at the beginning I said I didn’t want the Russian or Chinese jabs because I didn’t trust their governments, but now I don’t care where it comes from — just get it in my arm! I have friends who were originally not planning on taking the vaccine, but realizing they probably won’t be able to travel without it, are now going to be lining up with the rest of us.

The reason it’s so slow is quite simple really. This is a poor country, and we don’t have the money to get the vaccines as easily or in such volumes as the rich nations. We’re getting there though, and I definitely see a light at the end of the tunnel. I have my fingers, toes and eyes crossed that I’ll be able to take my Scotland and Canada trip sometime this year!

And yes, I’d still rather be in Argentina than anywhere else in the world!

Beautiful Church

Last week Venetia and I went to a district that specializes in furniture shops, as I want to buy some new dining room chairs. It was an extremely hot day, and when we saw this church we knew it would be cool inside, so in we went! Like quite a number of churches in Buenos Aires, it doesn’t stand back on its own, but instead is just another number on the street — although the front and doorway itself is beautiful.

Many churches here, although beautiful, are sadly neglected through lack of funds, but that’s not the case with Santa Rosa de Lima. The marble was an unusual grey colour and very highly polished. Some of the statues I liked better than others, but none of them suffered from chipped paint and the colours were quite vibrant. Ironically, although I was impressed by it, for me this church didn’t have the sense of the sacred that I’ve felt in other less beautiful ones.

Here are some of  Venetia’s photographs, which certainly do justice to this lovely church. (And I finally took the time to learn how to place photographs in a gallery, which looks much better.)

Couldn’t Resist!

I can’t believe I haven’t posted since Cecilia’s fiesta! Pure laziness, but I couldn’t resist posting this one.

Yesterday I went out for brunch with Sally and Venetia, and we ended up on the terrace at La Biela. On the weekends there’s usually a couple dancing tango, and they were there yesterday. When the woman came round with the hat, on impulse I asked if I could dance with the guy, and she said yes!

I wasn’t dressed for it at all. My long skirt made it hard to move my legs and I had on my ugly walking sandals, but given all that and the fact that I haven’t danced for months, I think I did all right. I told the guy I was out of practice, but he didn’t make any allowances!

When I came back to my table, the waiter said I danced tango like an Argentine!

Here’s the video Venetia shot — thanks Venetia! I hope you enjoy it.

Cecilia’s Fiesta!

As I mentioned last week, Cecilia had her 70th birthday on January 19. She had an asado at her home on the actual day with a few friends, but the big celebration with family was the whole of last weekend. Given the pandemia situation, there were only 15 people there (and several dogs), but it was a fun event anyway.

We left on Friday morning for Chivilcoy, where Cecilia’s daughter Macarena and her partner Daniela live. It was definitely the place to be, because the temperature was 37 degrees on Saturday and 38 degrees on Sunday—and they have a pool. You’ll see we spent quite a lot of time in it!

I hope you enjoy this short video I put together from some of my own photos, some photos and videos Venetia took, and one video of Cecilia’s entrance that somebody sent me and I’m sorry but I don’t know who took it. Thank you anyway. It was certainly a fiesta to remember!

Forgotten Anniversary

Yesterday was an anniversary I hadn’t even thought of. It was Felix’s birthday (no, I didn’t forget that one) and I suddenly remembered that the first time I came to Argentina on holiday was on his birthday in 2014. So, yesterday was the 7th anniversary of that pivotal moment in my life.

By the time I remembered, it was too late to get anyone to meet me for dinner, so I went myself. I went to a rather special (and expensive!) Italian restaurant quite near me, called La Parolaccia, and the meal was fabulous. Here are some photos of it.

La Parolaccia

Fusilli Don Corleone — well named, as I certainly couldn’t refuse it!

For me, the magic word is Tiramisu and I can never resist when I see it on a menu. I’m not kidding when I say this might have been the best I’ve EVER tasted!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even though I was alone, I must have looked as if I was celebrating something, as they presented me with a complimentary glass of champagne as soon as I arrived.

I’m glad I remembered this anniversary, a big day in my life. I came for a two-week vacation and never for a moment thought it would change my life and that I’d be making beautiful Buenos Aires my home!

 

American Food!

We had a different kind of culinary experience today. Our friend Lola, who is American, found an American-style diner called Jay’s and recommended we try it. When she described all the cholesterol-laden goodies on tap, four of us jumped on board right away! Sadly, Lola has hurt her back, and wasn’t able to join us — we’ll have to go again another day!

Anyway, it didn’t disappoint. The other three had bacon and eggs. Now you might not think that’s anything very exciting, but the truth is it’s very difficult to find good bacon here, so this was a treat. They all raved about it — especially the fried bread!

I, on the other hand, didn’t have bacon. Ever since I knew we were going there, my taste buds have been hankering for pancakes, so that’s what I had. In this picture you can clearly see that the stack did justice to American sized portions!

It’s amazing how excited you get about food you remember from home — even though you might not have bothered eating it much when you were there!

Vivi Sings Again!

As cafes and other eating places gradually open up to live entertainment again, our friend Viviana Falabella is once again performing. Last night she played in a cool little place in San Telmo called Pista Urbana.

Of course the place has to abide by the protocol, and there were probably half the number of tables they would usually have. We were quite a large group, spread out among several tables, but we came together for this photo. Vivi is the one standing up in the middle. By the way, we are allowed to unmask to eat and drink!

I think you’ll agree that Gillian takes first prize for her creative mask!

Although she does sing other types of music, last night Vivi sang only Latin songs. That being the case, I put in a request in advance for Besame Mucho. When my late husband, Felix, was a professional singer and musician, this was one of my favourites of his songs, and he always sang it to me from the stage. So Vivi’s rendition brought back happy memories as well as present enjoyment. I hope you enjoy it too.

My Recent Podcast Interview

I was recently interviewed by a speaking colleague, George Torok, on his excellent podcast, Your Intended Message. It was about how writing a book can safeguard your legacy. You can check out the audio here.

We did it in video, and George will release the video in a couple of weeks. I’ll post it again here just in case you prefer to watch rather than just listen.