Cafes Notables

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Merienda with Lola

Today I had merienda, or afternoon snack, with my friend Lola at Caffe Tabac, one of the Bares Notables of Buenos Aires. We started at an outside table, because it was a lovely spring day, but the place is on a very busy corner and it was noisy, so we moved inside.

Lola introduced me to a wine she likes called Malbec rosada. It is, of course, made with Malbec grapes but with other varieties as well and the result is a very nice, crisp rosé, perfect for sipping in the sun. I think it might become a favourite in the upcoming summer months. Salud!

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This Bar Wasn’t Notable Enough

Yesterday I went with some friends back to Caffe Tabac, one of the Bares Notables I visited for my book. It’s quite a nice place, although not as old and full of character as some others.

After we had eaten, I approached the senior staff person to see if I could set up an interview, and was told that there was nobody there who knew anything about the history of the cafe! Apparently it had been closed for some time (which I knew) and reopened five years ago under new ownership, and nobody there knew anything about the time before that.

So Caffe Tabac won’t be featured in my book. But there are lots of others to choose from, so no worries.

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Cafe de los Angelitos

This is one of the Bares (or Cafes) Notables I am writing about for my new book. It is well known for its “tango” show, but none of my usual people were interested in going. I personally don’t like tango shows either, because they are more showy choreographed programs and not real tango. However, as I thought it would be useful for my book, I decided to go along anyway.

Two visitors I had recently met, Anneliese from Australia and Aytuna from Germany, were keen to see it though, so we three went together.

The cafe itself is beautiful, and has an interesting (read iffy) past. I will go again to do some sketching and perhaps have a further conversation with the manager, but in the meantime I thought I’d share some photos.

The theatre part of Los Angelitos is quite opulent, as you can see from this shot of the stage.

This lovely stained glass piece over the bar reflects the tango aspect of the cafe’s history.

I couldn’t resist a photo op with the lady who was checking in the visitors, in costume from the early 20th century.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the video, you’ll see it’s not all tango. It’s more of a reflection of the music scene in Buenos Aires from the early 20th century. For me, this woman was the best part of the show. I should have made a longer videeo, but my phone was running out of juice. I hope you enjoy it anyway. Note the live tango orchestra on a platform behind the performers.

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Exciting Publishing News!

I’m so excited about this news I have to tell you! Yesterday I had a meeting with Argentinidades, an Argentine book publishing company. I first met them in April 2018 at the huge Buenos Aires Book Fair, where I gave them a copy of Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango. They showed a lot of interest, but nothing happened after the fair.

But a few weeks ago I had an email from them, asking to meet with me to talk about the book. I have to say the meeting was hilarious, because Juan’s English was barely as good as my Spanish, which is pretty good for everyday life, but challenging for a business meeting. He kept hitting his forehead and exclaiming, “Ay, my English!”, while I did the same while muttering, “Ay, mi español!” Funny.

But the outcome is that they are going to translate the book, publish and distribute it in Spanish throughout South America! Not only that, but when I told them about the new book I’m writing about the Bares Notables, he jumped on that too.

I am adding two new chapters to the first book, as I want to make it a second edition. I need to have that finished and the manuscript of the second one finished by February, so that they can do the translation and get the books ready to promote at the 2020 Book Fair. How exciting is that?!

But there’s more! (I sound like one of those late night knife commercials!) They are kicking around a new book project about Buenos Aires, and they have invited me to be one of the authors on the team! That one hasn’t been finalized yet, so it’s fingers, toes and eyes crossed. It won’t make me rich, but it will help build my reputation as someone who writes about Argentina with love in her heart, which is what I want.

Couldn’t wait to tell you. Tonight we are doing another Bares Notables research dinner, so we will be hoisting a glass of champagne to celebrate!

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Research at the Black Cat

These are the spices that create the wonderful aroma

We had a fun research lunch at El Gato Negro on Thursday. We were five: Lina, Joanna, Gayle, Venetia and me.

El Gato Negro is one of the old, classic Bares Notables, and it’s typical of old Buenos Aires. It looks small when you go in the front door, but if you keep walking past the bar you find it opens up into another seating space at the back. Apparently there is more upstairs, but I haven’t ventured there yet.

We pushed two very small tables together to accommodate us, and it was definitely cozy. But the place was packed, so that’s the best we could do.

 

Venetia’s fish fortunately tasted better than it looked!

Not quite sure what to call this beef dish in English but it was yummy.

Joanna and I had lomo salteado (kind of a stir

You can tell Lina was happy with her choice of salad.

fry/stew of filet) which was delicious. Lina was very noble and had a salad. Venetia’s fish left something to be desired in terms of presentation, but she said it was very good. Gayle asked for a croque madame, but they brought a croque monsieur and she sent it back to have the eggs removed! Everyone was happy with the food.

El Gato Negro is also famous for fresh spices, not only in the food but available for purchase, as well as a huge variety of teas. As a result, when you open the door you are enveloped in a delicious aroma. I’ve bought tea there before, and I’m always tempted by the spices, but as I’m not an ambitious cook I think the effort would be wasted. But Lina bought a special Moroccan spice which she was dying to try.

I have the email address of the manager, and I’m going to set up an interview sometime soon. Lovely little place, and everyone would be happy to go back.

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Bar Notable “New Brighton”

New Brighton, Bar Notable of Buenos Aires

This is a Bar Notable of Buenos Aires? It looks more like a high-end gentlemen’s club in England. There’s good reason for that, and it goes back to the place’s history, but I’ll talk about that in another post.

It’s much bigger than it looks from the outside, as the whole space is long and narrow. The dark wood paneling is lustrous and elegant. The mirrors, of which there are many, are polished to within an inch of their lives. The table linen is blindingly white. Two stag heads are mounted on the wall, but even these are understated in an English kind of way.

Lina and I select a bottle of wine. When the waiter brings it, instead of asking one person to taste it, in the usual way, he asks us both. I wonder what would happen if one liked it and the other didn’t! A nice touch though.

Lina selects a risotto of spinach and smoked salmon. When she takes her first forkful, her eyes close and she utters an ecstatic “Mmmmmm!” I can’t count the number of times she pronounces it delicious before it’s done.

I have the Spanish omelette. In Canada they always seem to smother them in tomato sauce, but here they serve them as they do in Spain—stuffed with potatoes and no sauce needed.  It’s one of my favourite dishes and the one I often choose in Bares Notables. It gives me a point of comparison to see who does it best. So far it’s a tie between New Brighton and Los Galgos. This one is very large, and before serving the waiter asks if I would like to have it cut in two. I do. I’m sure he knows from experience I will want to take half home with me.

I know some people think omelettes should be runny, but I’m not one of them, so I always ask for it cozido (cooked). When he cuts into it, he notices it is quite liquid, so he thinks I would probably like it cooked a little more. I agree. Pro-active — I like that.

Before leaving, I ask to speak to the manager, Mariela. I explain what I am doing, and we arrange for me to go in by myself next Wednesday at 11 am for coffee, when she will talk to me about New Brighton. Before the lunchtime crowd arrives I will also have free rein to sketch. I’m looking forward to it.

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Bares Notables Research—Los Galgos

Los Galgos is one of my favourite places to have lunch or merienda, but this was the first time I’d gone with the book research in mind. I was joined by Lina, Joanna and Joanna’s husband Gary.

Galgos means greyhound, and the motif is used very effectively on the menu, as well as in the rest of the decor. I took a couple of photos of the inside, but they don’t really show the greyhound theme well. I’m going to go back there on my own and chat with the manager. I’ll go when it’s not too busy and then I can sketch and take better photos.

The food is very good. I like Spanish omelettes, so I eat them a lot and can compare. So far, the one at Los Galgos is the best. The others had meatballs, some sort of steamed dish that contained fish and veggies, and milanesa. Milanesa is a very popular “cheap and cheerful” dish here. It’s a flattened piece of beef or veal or chicken, breaded and fried. Gary’s came a caballo, or on horseback, which is what they call it when it has fried eggs on top—I was familiar with that term as they also use it in Portugal. Everyone proclaimed their food delicious.

In fact, all in all, Los Galgos gets top marks from everyone.

I haven’t scheduled next week’s events yet, but everyone is looking forward to them.

 

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Research: Bar El Federal

We started the research again last week into the Bares Notables for my upcoming book. The first outing was for dinner at Bar El Federal, one of the oldest ones in San Telmo. There were just three of us – Lina, Wendy and me — but it was a fun evening and I got opinions from everyone. All good.

Here are a few of the photos I took.

The Menu

Behind the bar.

Lots of chorizo for the ever-popular picadas

Wendy and Lina

As you can see, the iconic portrait of Che Guevara graces the bar, so I thought I’d talk about him to add some spice to the book. For example, did you know his name wasn’t Che? It was actually Ernesto. “Che” is a very Argentine word that can mean many things, from “hey you” to “friend” to just a filler word that doesn’t really mean anything. When

Lovely old cash register on the end of the bar

he went to Cuba to join the revolution, as an Argentine of course he kept saying it. One of his comrades starting referring to him by it, and it stuck. Hence: Che Guevara. See — every day’s a school day!

Tomorrow we are going to Caffee Tabac, quite different from Federal, but also a Bar Notable. Stay tuned.

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Started a New Book!

As I told you a few weeks ago, I am leading an online group of people who are determined to get their books written, some after quite some time. Because part of the process is that they are held accountable for doing what they said they would do, I decided I should too. So I’m writing another book.

I actually began it last year when I was down here. It’s about a series of very old, very typical bars or cafes (in Buenos Aires they are the same thing) called the Bares Notables. Some of my friends enthusiastically agreed to join me in the “research”, which consisted of eating and drinking in several of the establishments! But I didn’t really follow through and all I have is a series of notes.

But now I have the motivation to actually write it, so I’m picking up where I left off. Three of my friends who will definitely want to help again with the research — Venetia, Joanna and Sally — are on vacation right now, so I might wait a couple of weeks for that part.

But while I was out for another purpose this week, I had lunch in one of the bars. It’s called Los Galgos, which means greyhounds, and there are pictures of those dogs all over the place. Curious to know why? Stay tuned — I’ll let you know after I interview the owner.

They did, however, have absolutely delicious bread. As a rule I don’t like Argentine bread, so this was very welcome. They make everything in house, and these were crusty on the outside and soft and light inside — yummy. I asked if I could buy some to take home, and the waiter said unfortunately no. But when he came back with my change, he brought these two in a paper bag — free of charge. Nice, eh? And very Argentine!

 

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Another Lovely Old Buenos Aires Bar

Last year I began researching the very old bars and cafes of Buenos Aires known as “Bares Notables”, with a view to writing a book about them. My research is stalled because of other projects, but that doesn’t stop me from enjoying the bars!

Last night I went to a milonga with my friend Lina, and we went for dinner afterwards at Bar Federal, one of the oldest. I had a steak, which was as good as it looks in this photo! These old places are full of atmosphere and still brimming with life.

I will get back to that book one of these days!