Roundup of the Past Few Days

I haven’t posted since I came back from Gualeguaychu, so this will be a bit of a roundup of what I’ve been doing over the past few days, complete with photos.

First, I had a couple of days feeling under the weather last Friday and part of Saturday. When I came home from breakfast I had intended to get a lot of work done, but my energy level was below zero and I couldn’t drag myself to my desk. All I wanted to do was sleep, my joints were aching and I felt yucky. Dire thoughts of zika or dengue were going through my head!

In the end though, it sorted itself out by midday Saturday, and I figured there were two reasons. First, although it has been hot since I arrived here, last week it was more than hot — it was oppressive. When you stepped out the door you felt the atmospheric pressure pushing down, and I think that was the first problem. But the other part was probably my own fault, as I realized I hadn’t been drinking enough water. (Plenty of wine, but I don’t think that counts.) So I started drinking much more water, the atmospheric pressure has lightened up considerably and I am back to normal.

Cucumber Sandwiches for Tea!

I think I mentioned before that there is a very posh hotel across the street from me. It’s called the Alvear Palace — quite old and considered among the very best hotels in Buenos Aires. And for some reason, they are well known for their afternoon teas! I had been promising myself that treat for a while, so decided to do it on Sunday. People had told me to go there hungry, so I didn’t have any lunch and planned to make this my dinner as well. It was certainly something to remember. Here are some photos.

IMG_2964Very olde worlde, full of charm. The room is called the Orangerie, and the glass ceiling gives it a lovely outdoors feeling.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2967Waiters and waitresses in old style uniforms (as they are in many of the restaurants here).  A pity there wasn’t a waitress in this shot, as they wore white gloves. Haven’t seen any of those in a while.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2966Lovely small sandwiches, and so many of them it wasn’t hard to fill up. I don’t know where they get their bread, because that’s something I’ve often found disappointing here, but there was a variety here and it was all good.

They did have lovely little scones with homemade jam, but — alas — no cream! For one brought up on authentic Devonshire cream teas, this was a big gap. But then again, when in Rome…

I had been told they excel with their desserts, and I thought this selection of small pieces was it. Wrong. See next picture!

 

IMG_2968I chose this feathery light choux pastry concoction because it was the smallest thing on the trolley and I was getting pretty full by that time. It was delicious though and I managed to eat it all — what a surprise!

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2971There was no choice in tea, by the way. The one they served was some kind of blend of citrus and other types of black tea, and it was delicious. She kept coming to fill up my cup, and I’m usually a one-cup tea drinker. But again, it was so good I drank three cups!

This is a close-up of the silverware. They even had an elegant little silver container for the sugar substitute — how classy is that?

It was lovely, but the only thing missing for me was company. For the most part I don’t mind dining alone, but somehow here I needed someone to chat with. Frankly, despite the ambience and lovely food, I was a bit bored. But I’m going back next month with Cecilia, so that will fix that problem.

Dinner with New Friends

PabloCynthiaMeThere was no problem last night with a lack of dinner companions. A year or so ago at an InterNations event in Toronto, I met Diana. She was born in Argentina, although has lived many places, the most recent of which is Toronto. She introduced me electronically to her cousin, Pablo, and he and his wife, Cynthia, invited me to dinner last night.

Coincidentally, they chose a great Italian restaurant that is less than a five-minute walk from my place, so it was perfect. They are an interesting couple who run their own business online, so we had lots to talk about. We also shared stories and laughs about our lives, and all in all it was a lovely night. I am going to return their hospitality next month before I go back, and I will look forward to their company again.

And don’t they both contribute to this idea that all Porteños are good looking??

Couple of Sketches to Round Things Up

IMG_2963I haven’t sketched as much as I thought, because it has often just been too hot. (I know I’ve mentioned that to some people before, much to everyone’s annoyance!) But I’m determined to get some more done, so here are two I did in the last couple of days.

Avenida 9 de Julio is apparently the widest street in South America, and I wouldn’t doubt it. But it has a lovely treelined boulevard down the middle, and I found this beautiful little fountain at one of the intersections. The bonus was that I could sit in the shade of a big tree as I sketched.

 

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 1.10.30 PMThe lovely pink trees in the background are in full bloom right now. They are called ceibo and the blossom is the national flower of Argentina. Here’s a closeup I found online, although most of the ones I’ve seen are a lighter, more delicate shade than this.

 

 

cementarioI paid another visit to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, which is always fascinating. Here’s my sketch of one of the broad avenues that give the place the air of a little town — except everybody is dead!

Not many cities have a cemetery as a tourist attraction, but this one does. The rich and famous of Buenos Aires have been buried here for generations, including Eva Peron (Evita). Her family tomb is actually one of the less interesting looking ones, but of course it’s one of the most most visited and usually has a few floral tributes. By the way, contrary to most people’s perception and largely due to the movie, Evita is not universally adored here. Many still worship her memory, but many others don’t. The Peronista movement is, however, still alive and relatively well in Argentina.

I think that’s it for now. Please leave your comments so I know you are still interested in my adventures!

Now I’m off to meet with some expats and then have my tango lesson — always a highlight of my week!

 

 

 

 

Busy busy busy!

Although I haven’t strayed very far from Buenos Aires over the past several days, it has been all go. Let me see if I can remember some of it, not necessarily in order.

On Saturday afternoon I went for a tango lesson with a small group from InterNations. It was in a wonderful little place called Apassionata Tango Hotel — and yes, it really is a hotel built around a tango theme. There were ten of us, miraculously five men and five women. Here’s a photo of us having a break, and a shot of the hotel interior.

tango grouptango hotelOur teacher was Fabian, I believe one of the owners of the hotel, and he was marvelous. Of course, anyone can dance with the teacher because he knows how to lead, but dancing with others who are just learning is more difficult, especially when you are just learning yourself. There was a Swiss woman called Claudia who immediately changed into proper tango shoes, and I thought to myself that she’d better know how to dance wearing those shoes. Well, she did. She had danced a lot in Switzerland and here as well, and it was a pleasure to watch her dance with the fellow who organized the event (also a lovely dancer). And she was also nice enough to help me get on the right bus after the lesson, which I very much appreciated.

This afternoon I go for my next private tango lesson, so let’s see if I’ve improved!

Yesterday I had breakfast with a lovely lady I met through InterNations. She is about my age and we share quite a few interests. She is from Albany, NY. She came to Buenos Aires first for a couple of holidays. Then she came for a couple of months and took a furnished apartment (sound familiar?). Then she took an unfurnished apartment and furnished it herself. Then, ten years ago, she bought an apartment and moved here permanently. I seem to have met quite a few people who came here for a visit and loved it so much they stayed on. Just saying…

Last night we went to a Chinese New Year celebration with a huge fireworks display in a park near Chinatown. Funny — watching a South American show in Buenos Aires, drinking caipirinha (Brazilian yummy cocktail) and wishing people Kung Hei Fatt Choy!

La BielaThe place where I have breakfast every morning is called La Biela, which means monkey wrench, or spanner for the Brits. Why? Because in the forties, this place was a well known hangout for famous racing drivers! There is a life size statue of one of them outside the door, and people get their photos taken with him all day long. Donna and I thought we might as well do the same.

 

 

 

 

 

Donna also took these photos inside my apartment and I thought you might like to see them.

ApartmentApartment2

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don’t think I’ve posted any pictures of Cecilia, so here she is with Donna outside our cabana at Los Esteros.

cecilia and donna

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, that’s it for now. I’m off to dance with Alejandro!

More Sketching, More Cafes

Yesterday I decided to sketch the Presidential Palace. It is called the Casa Rosada, or Pink House, because — well, it’s pink. I found the right bus and didn’t get too lost — mind you, it’s kind of hard to miss!

CasaRosadaIt took me over an hour to do the sketch, and it was right at the hottest time of day. And there was not an inch of shade in the square, so I was really exposed to the sun. Fortunately I had plastered myself with sun cream before I left, so although I got a lot of colour I wasn’t too burned. (And where was my genuine Panama Hat, made in Ecuador? At home in the cupboard of course! I’ve taken it out now though and am making a point of wearing it because the sun is very strong.)

If you saw the movie “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” you may recognize the building, as it was from one of these balconies that Evita addressed the crowd in the square.

Today I went out to sketch, but didn’t end up doing anything because it was way too hot. (Oh shut up, Helen, I hear you say!)

tortoniFrom there I went for lunch to another cafe, the Cafe Tortoni. This is the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, and they have kept it more or less the way it was. There are pictures on the walls of the famous writers and paintings by the artists of the thirties and forties, and there is art deco glass all over the place. I keep expecting Ernest Hemingway to walk in and sit down!

Tomorrow I am going away with Cecilia and a new friend, Donna from California, for five days to some kind of wetlands area in another part of the country. I don’t think there will be wifi, so I probably won’t blog again until I get back next Friday and then I can tell you all about it.

 

I Met Some New Friends — and I went on a bus!

OK, yesterday I took the plunge and tried out the Buenos Aires transportation system. I figure if I keep taking taxis all the time I’ll never get to know the city, so I bought a pass and I was ready.

I asked Cecilia to help me understand it so that I wouldn’t get lost on my first expedition. She showed me a site online where I can put in the “to and from” information (kind of like the TTC Trip Planner) and find out which bus, train or subway to use. The thing is, there are a gazillion buses in this city, all buzzing around in different directions, so it’s a little scary. Anyway, we went to a great barrio called Palermo, which I’ve been to several times and which I love, and that was quite easy. I’m pretty sure I could get back there on my own.

But then, I had planned to go to The English Group of Buenos Aires at night, and I invited Cecilia to come with me. So we took two more buses and went straight there from Palermo — which totally messed me up! I think I’ll be OK next week if I just go straight from here though. But it was great, as I already saw areas of the city that were new to me.

TEGOBA was great fun. The people there are a mix of locals, expats and visitors, and the objective is to help locals practise their English. There were people there from several different countries as well as several porteños (Buenos Aires natives), and they were all ages including a wee boy of about nine. He was with his parents, porteños, and he spoke fluent English and had beautiful manners. What a great start for him, eh?

The event finished about 10 pm — and then I had to get the bus home! It was quite near where Cecilia lives, so it seemed silly for her to come all the way back here with me — it was about 45 minutes. I have to admit I was very nervous, but Lady Luck was on my side as a young couple heard Cecilia speak to the driver and it turned out they were getting off at my stop. It’s a good thing they were, because I might have had a problem recognizing it. I then had to walk a couple of blocks to get home from the bus stop, but it was fine. I wasn’t nervous at all because I recognized my own neighbourhood right away so it was easy from there. But I feel like the world is my oyster now that I know how to ride the bus!

Screen Shot 2016-01-09 at 9.55.48 AMScreen Shot 2016-01-09 at 9.56.38 AMHere are a couple of sketches I’ve done here. Cecilia greeted me at the airport with this enormous bouquet of flowers to welcome me back — nice, eh? The other is a cafe right on my corner, which might be a regular haunt for me. I might gradually built up a collection of cafe sketches over my time here, as there are so many of them, each with its own personality.

 

OK, I’ll sign off now. It’s Saturday morning and I’m off to find some adventure!