Cafes

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Research at Petit Colon

I haven’t been very active here for a week or so, largely because I’m battling my second cold of the summer. I’ve managed to keep up with most of the social stuff, but just haven’t felt up to writing about them.

Anyway, last night I went with Joanna, Venetia, Michael and Bettye to Petit Colon to continue the research for my book. It’s only 40 years old, which is quite new for a Bar Notable, and in fact it was renovated just five years ago. But it is a lovely little place.

It’s called Petit Colon because it is on the street behind the Teatro Colon, and they have panelled the walls with a dark tapestry type fabric, reminiscent of old theatres. There is a fantastic alabaster chandelier my friends were urging me to sketch, but I couldn’t resist this big old clock. (It wasn’t actually six o’clock, of course, but that’s where the clock has stuck!) I might go back for morning coffee one day and do the chandelier.

There’s a fun research place coming up on Thursday night, and so many people are coming I think I actually have to make a reservation! I’ll post about that one for sure.

I had an interesting tango lesson this week from a different teacher. There are special “feminine techniques” in tango that help give it that special elegance, and I decided I needed to work with a woman to get that. So yesterday morning, despite the sniffles, I spent an hour with Luciana Lial, and I feel it is going to help my tango when I add it to what I am learning from Alejandro. Tango on!

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Jazz Concert at La Biblioteca

On Friday night I went with some friends to a concert in a little club called La Biblioteca. It’s a small, intimate space with shelves full of old books on all the walls.

The singer was Joanna Maddox. She is a jazz and blues singer from Atlanta, but she has made Buenos Aires her home and has built up quite a following. Check out the video and you’ll see why.

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Another ‘Research’ Event — and a Bonus Surprise for Me!

Last night I went with five women friends on another “research” trip for the new book. It was also International Women’s Day, which is very big down here, so a nice way to celebrate. We were Cecilia, Venetia, Joanna, Lola and Gillian.

Bar Sur is a very old establishment in the very old barrio of San Telmo, where many of the Bares Notables are to be found. It’s tiny, dark and very cozy and intimate. I had spoken with Beatriz, the proprietor, last week, so she knew we were coming and welcomed us warmly.

We ordered wine and picada, and sat back to chat and wait for the show.

Bar Sur claims to have the oldest tango show in San Telmo, and I believe it. The signed photos of tango stars of the past around the walls testify to its tight ties with the music and dance of tango.

There’s no stage in Bar Sur, so the performers sing, dance and play right there on the floor beside the tables, which makes you feel almost like part of the show. I particularly liked the bandoneonero and the two dancers, who beautifully evoked the soulful sound of tango, which was emphasized even more because of the very dim lighting. I’ve put some photos of the iside here.

You might be wondering what the surprise bonus was. Well …

While some of us were taking advantage of a photo opp with the dancers (see the end of the first video), I told him I actually wanted to dance. He didn’t say anything at the time, but before the end of the show I looked up to find him in front of me, giving me a cabeceo — invitation to dance!

I separated Joanna’s video of this, as I didn’t want to put it beside the real dancers, but take a look and let me know what you think.

Of course if I had realized I was going to be part of the show, I would have worn my tango shoes!

We still have a lot of bares notables to see, but it will be hard to top that one just for the experience! See the videos below.


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Bar Notable “La Poesia”

More research last night for the new book! Silvia, Venetia, Viviana and Joanna joined me at La Poesia, a lovely old bar in San Telmo that was created long ago as a kind of hangout for writers and poets and other literary folks.

I was sitting near the side door, and suddenly a woman walked in and started singing! She was good — no microphone, no accompanists, just a good set of pipes. She was good.

Then soon after she left, a man pulled a chair over from a table, sat down and started playing bandoneon, that soulful instrument that gives tango music is distinctive sound. He was good too!

Nobody pays these people. They just go around the various bars and cafes, do their thing and rely on tips — kind of modern day troubadors! Anyway, here are the two videos Venetia shot (thanks Venetia!)  of the performances and a bit of the surroundings to give you a feel for La Poesia.


 

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More Research — 2 Cafes in One Afternoon!

Yesterday, Raul, Venetia, Gillian and I arranged to visit and review Los Galgos, one of the Cafes Notables of Buenos Aires. Interesting name: los galgos means the greyhounds. I thought it might have had a more interesting history, but according to the waitress, who did seem quite knowledgeable, it was simply that the original owner loved going to the racetrack to watch the greyhound races.

Originally opened in 1930, Los Galgos was by all accounts a vibrant part of an area that never slept, until it closed after several decades. I can’t seem to find exactly when it closed, but in 2015 it reopened under new management. They worked hard to renovate the cafe using many of the original materials and keeping to the spirit of the original.

We had coffee, which wasn’t as great as we had expected but not bad. We also shared some fantastic tarta de ricotta, a very generous slice of moist sponge cake with a filling kind of similar to German style cheesecake. Delicious!

When we left, Raul mentioned another Cafe Notable nearby called Celta, and we decided to take that one in while we were in the area. Being merienda time, we opted for wine instead of coffee.

Great old place with hams and salamis and cheeses hanging from the ceiling. But my favourite thing was the big old fashioned cash register hand decorated with Fileteado Porteño!

Everyone is entering into the spirit of my research with gusto, and Venetia, who is a professional photographer, is taking lots of shots so I’ll have a good selection for the book.

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El Gato Negro

Today I had lunch with Venetia at El Gato Negro, another of the cafes notables I am researching for my book, with the help of some cafe loving friends!

This is a lovely old place, with traditional flooring, lots of wood panelling, waiters with red vests — and a wonderful smell composed of coffee and the many spices they use in cooking and also sell. Venetia had cafe con leche flavoured with cardamom!

We had tacos for lunch, but they were like no tacos I’ve ever had. Quite small and not folded over. The mixture was piled on top of them, and consisted of chicken pieces in a curry flavoured yogurt sauce. Yummy!

Here’s my quick sketch of the wall behind the counter, with the signature black cat overlooking all the bottles and jars and cans of spices, coffees and teas.

When we left and were walking along Corrientes, we passed this great little sweet shop and I couldn’t resist the white and bitter chocolate flakes! Good thing I walk so much, or this research would be making me fat!

 

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New Book Project — Research Started

As you probably know, Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango! was the first in a series of “love letters to Argentina”. I hadn’t planned it that way originally, but it soon became clear it was the way to go.

I have been working on the second one, which is about my trip to Salta and Jujuy at the beginning of December. I will probably publish that when I get back to Canada in May — or maybe before.

But I’m excited to let you know I now have the third book in the works! Buenos Aires has a very strong cafe tradition, and there are quite a number of establishments known as cafes notables or bares notables — cafes and bars are pretty much the same thing here. Anyway, these notable bars and cafes are very old, often historic, eating and gathering places across the city, and I decided it would be a good idea to write a book about them.

I don’t want it to be a “guide book”, but rather my own take on these wonderful old places, so that others visiting can decide which ones to visit. I’ve put out the word to a small group of my friends here who might like to join me in the “research” phase — ie visiting as many as possible before I leave at the end of April, sampling the coffee, wine and food (notably pastries!) Research is hell, but it has to be done!!

Yesterday I did the first research trip on my own, because it was such short notice nobody else was able to come.

Las Violetas

Las Violetas is one of the most popular of the cafes notables, and this was my first visit. I consulted my trusty Google Maps, but didn’t like the route they suggested. I thought I knew a better one. Well … it did get me there, but I had to walk quite a distance through a barrio known as Once (pronounced onsay). This is not one of the better areas of town, but I have to say I loved it! There was such energy and fun in the air just walking down Pueyrredon that I was tempted to whip out my iPhone and make a video, but I quickly realized that wasn’t advisable as someone might have pinched it as I worked! I’m not a bit afraid as I walk on the streets of Buenos Aires, but there’s no point in being silly!

Anyway, I eventually arrived at Las Violetas and it was well worth the long walk. Here are a few photos I shot inside.


Although I opted to have a steak sandwich and make it my evening meal, their specialty really is “afternoon tea or coffee”, with huge plates of little sandwiches and these yummy miniature cakes. So I’ll definitely have to go back to Las Violetas with friends to share the bounty — as well as the “research!”

Stay tuned for more cafes notables posts coming up soon.

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Video of the Week: Caminito

Here’s a little taste of the lovely day I spent yesterday with Venetia, Raul, Amir and Efrat in the lovely Caminito. In my opening clip I refer to it as a tourist part, but it kind of sounds like a tourist park. I don’t want you to think it’s a park of any kind. On the contrary, it’s part of La Boca, a very old, historic barrio with its own fascinating history.

I hope you enjoy the video.

 

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This Is A Half Portion!

Yesterday I went to an early evening event of InterNations, which involved meeting about a dozen people and sitting outside on the terrace at La Biela. It’s a lovely way to spend a summer evening.

But when it was over, it was about 8 pm and I didn’t feel like going home to cook a meal. So I walked down the street to Clark’s, one of the oldest parillas in the area.

Just look at this steak! This was what they call a “half portion” — can you imagine what the full-size looks like? I cut it in two and brought half home for today’s lunch — which is a good thing because I’m going out tonight with another group and dinner will be empanadas and other picadas (snack foods). It’s all go in Buenos Aires!