Cafes

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Great little neighbourhood restaurant

In Buenos Aires there are a lot of what are called bodegones — kind of old style neighbourhood restaurants, not pretending to be anything else. You usually get good food and unpretentious service. That was the case last night when Lina and I went to Il Vero Arturito, usually just called Arturito.

Afterwards we decided we’d like to go somewhere else for a drink, so we took the bus back to my barrio, heading for La Biela, which I’ve talked about before. Imagine our consternation when we found it closed and shuttered. We had a moment of pandemia panic, until we saw a notice on the door saying they were closed for renovations from the 23rd to the 28th. So we figured they’re getting it ready for the tourists, who will start arriving after November 1. Looking forward to seeing what they do with it.

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Lovely dinner in a lovely place

Last night I went to dinner with Jayne and Venetia at a favourite place, La Olla de Felix. It has several rooms, all of which are nice, but this is the most beautiful. It has old plates and other artwork, and a lovely fireplace, all contributing to the feeling you’re in someone’s cosy but elegant home instead of a restaurant.

And although they don’t have any vegan options on the menu, they are happy to give me a plate of lovely grilled veggies and some roast potatoes—so I don’t even envy the others their steaks!

These photos will give you an idea of the place.

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Vivi Sings Again!

As cafes and other eating places gradually open up to live entertainment again, our friend Viviana Falabella is once again performing. Last night she played in a cool little place in San Telmo called Pista Urbana.

Of course the place has to abide by the protocol, and there were probably half the number of tables they would usually have. We were quite a large group, spread out among several tables, but we came together for this photo. Vivi is the one standing up in the middle. By the way, we are allowed to unmask to eat and drink!

I think you’ll agree that Gillian takes first prize for her creative mask!

Although she does sing other types of music, last night Vivi sang only Latin songs. That being the case, I put in a request in advance for Besame Mucho. When my late husband, Felix, was a professional singer and musician, this was one of my favourites of his songs, and he always sang it to me from the stage. So Vivi’s rendition brought back happy memories as well as present enjoyment. I hope you enjoy it too.

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Back to Two of Our Old Haunts!

Tonight was great! First I met with Venetia and Sally at La Biela at 8 pm, where we sat out on the terrace and drank a glass of champagne to celebrate the results of the US election. I didn’t take any photos there, but it was lovely to enjoy the summer evening.

Then around 9.30 pm we decided we wanted to eat. The food at La Biela is mediocre at best, so we walked down to one of our favourite haunts, El Sanjuanino, which serves the best empanadas in town. They also do good tamales, which is what we all had this time. They had tables outside, but it was starting to be a bit cool for that, so we went inside — and were greeted like long lost friends by our favourite waiter, Damian. It was lovely to be back there.

The President’s message on Friday said that Buenos Aires was in good shape and they are loosening the restrictions a bit more. The kids are going back to school, but we are still not allowed to use the buses. But going out for dinner is back on my social schedule, which I love. I wonder where I’ll eat tonight!

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Lovely Early Spring Afternoon

Today was one of those days when you could just feel spring in the air. Beautiful blue sky and sunshine, warm temperature, and people enjoying the park. If you can overlook the masks, which are kind of becoming invisible by now, it almost looked as if we were back to normal.

I ended my walk with a glass of red wine at La Parolacchia, because my favourite La Biela was full. A glass of wine at La Biela costs 110 pesos, but at this place there was a high service charge on top of a high price, and the whole thing cost 425 pesos. OK, I know it’s only $8 Cdn, but it’s high for here, and I won’t be going back there any time soon!

Like other places, they have “touchless menu”, so I really have to remember to download the QR code app.

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Tango Music at Cafe de los Angelitos

I’ve been to Cafe de los Angelitos a couple of times already, as it is a Bar Notable and there will be a chapter about it in my book. The reason for this visit was quite specific.

I belong to a worldwide expat organization called InterNations, and in Buenos Aires it has a tango group. They organized a little gathering where a professional tango pianist would come along and tell us something about the history and styles of tango music, and a we would be treated to some bandoneon music.

There couldn’t be a more appropriate setting than Cafe de los Angelitos, which is steeped in the history of tango. Photographs of the great tango orchestra leaders adorn the walls, and even the stained glass panels are tango themed.

The bandoneonista was a young woman, and apparently there’s a trend for more women playing the bandoneon. I think that’s interesting, as it may well add yet another nuance to the ever evolving music of tango.

She played on a little balcony over the bar, and told us to go ahead and chat and she would just play in the background. I find it very hard to sit when tango music is playing, and I might have invited one of the men in the group to dance, but there just wasn’t any space between the tables. In any case, it was a lovely interlude.

I hope you enjoy this little bitesized taste of Buenos Aires.

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British Saturday

Today was lovely, and quite different from the usual.

First there was the annual Christmas Fair at the British Embassy, so I went along just after 11 am. As usual, I met up with several of my friends, all on the hunt for British goodies for the Christmas table. I bought a plum pudding to take to Cecilia’s Christmas dinner, and even better, I found tablet at the Scottish table. It was quite good but a wee bit sugary and, I have to say, not as good as mine!

Next, the afternoon portion of the day.

My friend Gillian, who is English by birth but more Spanish having lived in Spain for many years and now here in Buenos Aires, teaches English as a second language to a group of Argentines. On Saturday, she had arranged to take a few of them to see the Downton Abbey movie, and then for afternoon tea. As she wants them to be exposed to a variety of accents in English, she also invited Venetia (London accent despite many years in California) and me (Scottish accent despite many years in Canada) to go along.

If you haven’t seen the movie, I highly recommend it. It had all the intrigue, beauty and humour of the television series, and of course all the actors are superb — most of all, in my opinion, Maggie Smith. I’m not sure how well the students would have picked up on all the nuances, so they said the Spanish subtitles were welcome!

Gillian is on the left pouring tea.

It wasn’t Devonshire cream, but tasted good anyway.

Afterwards, we all gathered in a little teashop, whose name I never did catch, for cucumber sandwiches (specially requested by Gillian to the bewilderment of the Polish owners) and scones with cream. I’m so used to speaking Spanish every day now that it felt strange to be not only speaking English, but speaking it very carefully so that they would understand me!

By the time we left the cafe it was after 7 pm, and Venetia and I were ready for a glass of Malbec. So we hopped on the bus and headed for one of our favourite hangouts, the terrace at La Biela. We were enjoying our wine when, predictably, two of our other friends turned up! Jeanette is from Edinburgh, and her husband Marco, although actually Argentine, has lived in Edinburgh for so long he sounds like a native! They spend several months here every year, and we love their company.

All in all, a lovely, varied summery day and I enjoyed every minute!

 

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Catching Up on a Rainy Day

We’ve had thunderstorms all night, with very heavy rain, and so far it looks as if it’s on for the day. I had plans to go to an afternoon milonga, but if this keeps up I’ll be staying home.

In the meantime, it’s a good day to catch up with my blog. Not in any particular order, here’s some of what’s been happening for me in beautiful Buenos Aires over the past week or so.

Bares Notables Research

La Poesia is one of my favourites of these lovely old bars, and in fact it might top my list. That’s because it has an old, traditional Buenos Aires kind of feel to it, and the food is excellent. You can also often be unexpectedly entertained, sometimes by wandering professionals, sometimes — like this time — by enthusiastic amateurs. The pianist came up to our table and asked if we would like to sing and he would accompany us. We assured him he didn’t want to hear any of us sing, but we would happily listen. This lady took up the challenge and we thought she did well.

La Biela

Last Sunday was one of those glorious spring days that felt like summer. I met up with a bunch of friends on the patio of La Biela, a favourite summer spot for almost everyone. After quaffing some wine and chatting, Venetia, Sasha and I went up to wander around the artesan market, where we all managed to get some money spent.

On the way back, we passed La Biela again and came upon this man singing opera. We listened to him for quite a while, although I just videoed his last song. These ladies at the table beside him were clearly Italian (many Porteños are of Italian heritage) and joined in heartily especially in the Neapolitan love songs.

Free Concert at the CCK

Last night Venetia and I went to a beautiful concert at the Central Cultural Kirchner, known as the CCK. I didn’t take any photos, but simply sat back and drank in the wonderful music. It was the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra, who are always a pleasure. They had a guest clarinetist, who raised the roof with the last piece, a blend of classical music and jazz. Even the other musicians were mesmerized with his amazing clarinet solos.

And as always, I’m amazed that we can enjoy this calibre of concert absolutely free!

Well I see it is kind of drying up just a bit outside, so I must take advantage of this lull to go out and buy some groceries. The milonga is still in doubt, but I do have to eat!

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Exciting Publishing News!

I’m so excited about this news I have to tell you! Yesterday I had a meeting with Argentinidades, an Argentine book publishing company. I first met them in April 2018 at the huge Buenos Aires Book Fair, where I gave them a copy of Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango. They showed a lot of interest, but nothing happened after the fair.

But a few weeks ago I had an email from them, asking to meet with me to talk about the book. I have to say the meeting was hilarious, because Juan’s English was barely as good as my Spanish, which is pretty good for everyday life, but challenging for a business meeting. He kept hitting his forehead and exclaiming, “Ay, my English!”, while I did the same while muttering, “Ay, mi español!” Funny.

But the outcome is that they are going to translate the book, publish and distribute it in Spanish throughout South America! Not only that, but when I told them about the new book I’m writing about the Bares Notables, he jumped on that too.

I am adding two new chapters to the first book, as I want to make it a second edition. I need to have that finished and the manuscript of the second one finished by February, so that they can do the translation and get the books ready to promote at the 2020 Book Fair. How exciting is that?!

But there’s more! (I sound like one of those late night knife commercials!) They are kicking around a new book project about Buenos Aires, and they have invited me to be one of the authors on the team! That one hasn’t been finalized yet, so it’s fingers, toes and eyes crossed. It won’t make me rich, but it will help build my reputation as someone who writes about Argentina with love in her heart, which is what I want.

Couldn’t wait to tell you. Tonight we are doing another Bares Notables research dinner, so we will be hoisting a glass of champagne to celebrate!

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I Can’t Believe I Did That

   My friend Venetia is back from her long vacation in Europe, so on Saturday we spent the day wandering around downtown, enjoying the spring weather. When it came time for lunch, we happened upon a lovely bodegón, the Argentine equivalent of a French bistro.

Love the sign pointing to the washroom!

When we went inside we were delighted! It was classic old Buenos Aires, down to the furniture, the way they displayed the bottles and the tiles on the floor. It also had a distinct tango vibe, with pictures of the old tango masters on the walls. When we had been there about ten minutes, and before we had begun lunch, a young guy sat down and started to play the bandoneón — that soulful, concertina-like instrument that gives tango its distinctive melancholy sound. Well, that was the icing on the cake. Venetia pronounced herself happy to be back in Buenos Aires.

Venetia took these photos and the video, so you can probably see the improvement from my usual ones!

But my feet were itching to dance tango!

Along the wall were several tables, most of which were occupied by groups of people. But the one closest to us was occupied by a man on his own. He looked to be in his sixties. I don’t know what got into me, but I gave him the classic mirada, the flirty glance that’s used in the milonga to entice a man to ask you to dance! He looked a bit startled – not surprisingly — and before I could think twice, I pointed to the small space in front of the bandoneón and said, “Queria bailar tango?” (Would you like to dance tango?)

Venetia nearly fell off her chair!

The man smiled and said he was sorry but he didn’t dance tango, but he thanked me very much for asking. I looked at Venetia and said, “I can’t believe I did that!” She said she thought it was very brave of me, but in retrospect I just thought it was a bit daft. But I’m sure the man will dine out on it for a while — I’m sitting in this bodegón minding my own business and this crazy woman asks me to dance!

Venetia’s steak was tender and juicy, but unfortunately mine was tough as old leather and I couldn’t eat it. I didn’t complain, but just told the waitress it was very tough. When the bill came there was no charge for mine. That’s good customer service, so I would go back.

But I won’t ask any more strange men to dance!