This was a beautiful day, bright and sunny, warm but not too humid, so I wanted to do some sketching. I haven’t been to the botanical gardens for a while, so I chose that as my destination.
Last time I went there to sketch, all the seats with good things to sketch were in full sun and it was way too hot to work, but today I was much luckier. Mind you, I sat on the wall at the edge of the pool to do the water lilies and I came within an inch of dropping my sketchbook in the water — that would have hurt!
Anyway, here are the two sketches. I’m almost at the end of this sketchbook, so the double page spread ones are difficult to photograph — sorry!
I saw some seats set out in front of the greenhouse, so I stopped to see what was happening. Unfortunately I couldn’t see the performers so I still don’t know, but the music is interesting!
Yesterday was one of those perfect days when the sun was shining in a blue sky with absolutely no humidity, and the temperature was in the high twenties. I decided to go down to Plaza Rodriguez Peña, a lovely square that’s quite near me but for some reason I don’t go to often. I took my sketching stuff with me as well as my Spanish binder, thinking I’d decide when I got there. It was so beautiful I did both!
First I did the sketch in the park part of the plaza, and then I moved over to in front of this lovely building called Palacio Sarmiento, which belongs to the Ministry of Education. I never get tired of all the gorgeous buildings in Buenos Aires! I sat in front of it and let it inspire me as I worked on my irregular verbs!
Sorry the photo of the sketch is a bit weird, but I’m nearly at the end of this sketch book and it won’t lie flat any more. I’ve been a bit lazy about sketching, so I’m happy I was finally able to produce something!
More than a year ago, I went with one of my groups to see the Palacio San Martin, one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. After the tour, I sat down in the lovely green square in front to do a sketch, but it was early winter and too cold to sit. (Here is what I managed that day.) I’ve been promising myself since that day that I would go back and finish it, and today I finally did.
It’s a good half hour walk there, so I was happy to sit down to do the sketch. Afterwards I walked across the street to Rapanui, a place whose ice cream is legendary. I sat at a little table outside and ate passionfruit and kiwi ice cream — bliss!
I had planned to take a taxi home — we’re still not allowed to use the buses — but started to walk and ended up walking all the way home. It’s 4.1 km both ways and I’ll admit to being shattered when I arrived, but now I’ve had a wee rest I feel ready for what’s next.
I’m meeting Venetia for a glass of wine at La Biela at 8 pm and then going for a bite to eat somewhere. My friend Lina said recently that now that we can eat out again, she is doing it every day as she is so fed up with her own cooking. Ditto.
During my first visit to Argentina, way back in 2014, I read something in a guide book that struck me quite forcibly. The writer said that all famous Argentines — including politicians, generals, artists — were polarizing figures. They all had their supporters and detractors.
Except one: General José de San Martin — El Libertador.
When I read that, I was immediately intrigued, and the more I read of San Martin the more fascinated I became.
He was known as El Libertador because he liberated from Spanish domination
My sketch of the monument in Plaza San Martin, Buenos Aires
not only Argentina, but also Peru and Chile. He was a brilliant soldier and, by all accounts, respected by those under his command as well as the population in general. In every Argentine city I’ve visited, there is at least a street and more often a square named after him. The one in Buenos Aires features one of the most beautiful monuments in the city — and there are many beautiful monuments here.
A couple of years ago, there was an event featuring all the bookstores on Avenida Corrientes — and there are lots of them. Old fashioned bookstores that actually sell books, and that night they were open until one o’clock in the morning. All busy, not only with browsers but with buyers. That night I bought this book about San Martin.
I began to read it and found it fascinating, although reading a history book in another language is quite challenging. I took it back to Toronto with me, but didn’t continue reading. When I moved down here I brought it back with me, and this week I came across it again on my bookshelf.
Yesterday I started to read it again, and I’m impressed all over again by this man they call The Liberator. He earned his title honestly and it’s no surprise he is probably Argentina’s greatest and most loved hero.
Cecilia’s sister Adriana lives in Rosario, a city a couple of hours north of Buenos Aires. Since it was on our way home, we stopped off for an overnight visit.
This is the front door of the Cathedral.
We had lunch in a restaurant owned by world famous football star Lionel Messi. He wasn’t there, of course, as he plays football in Europe. But I couldn’t resist posing with his photo to send to my nephew’s young son, who is football crazy and knows all about Messi!
But there’s no doubt that the number one landmark in Rosario is a huge monument that takes up a city block, dedicated to the national flag of Argentina, which was designed and first flown here by General Manuel Belgrano. It’s usually just referred to as The Monument.
The monument from the front.
The flags along the edge of the square have no image of the sun in the centre. These are recognized as a national symbol, but more informal. They must always be flown at a lower level than the official ceremonial flag.
View from the top of the monument, with the Rio Parana in the background
A detail on the wall of the square, showing Belgrano waving the flag for the first time.
Seen from the top of the tower, this is a beautiful view of a beautiful flag. The blue and white stripes represent the sky, or the heavens, which is said to be where the fight for independence from Spain began. The Sun of May in the centre represents the May Revolution, the high point of the war for independence.
At the other end from the tower is the memorial to the unknown warrior, topped by an eternal flame.
When we were at the top of the tower, a spontaneous concert of the Argentine folk music called chamamé broke out. The charmingly surprising thing was that the musicians wouldn’t take any money, saying the music was a gift from the heart.
We tried very hard to find a milonga so that I could dance tango on vacation, but it’s really a Buenos Aires thing. This poster for a class was the nearest thing we found!
And since we went there to visit Adriana, I thought it appropriate to add this charming photo of the two sisters walking hand-in-hand along the street.
This was my second visit to Rosario. It is a delightful city, and I look forward to going again.
One thing that struck me when I first arrived in Buenos Aires — and strikes pretty much everyone else — was the wonderful architecture. Being a sketcher, of course, I noticed it even more.
Among the really beautiful buildings are the many “palacios” that were built by wealthy families of the past — actually, “wealthy” doesn’t begin to cover it, which is apparent in some of the sumptuous homes. Some are used as office buildings, luxury hotels, grand apartments. Some are simply museums.
The one I saw today, Palacio San Martin, was bought by the Argentine government from the Anchorena family, and today belongs to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. I guess because of that, we were allowed to take photographs only outside, in the courtyard and the doorways, but nothing inside. That’s a pity, because they were jaw dropping. Here are the outside shots I took.
I have actually been meaning to sketch this building for, literally, years. I decided to go half an hour early for the tour and do it. Half an hour? What was I thinking? I’ll have to go back at least one more time to finish it. I’ll post it here when it’s done.
This is all I managed to get done — have to go back to finish it another day.
While I was back in Canada for six months last year, I sketched only once, while I was visiting my friend Lynda in Quebec. I’ve been hoping I would be inspired to start again now that I’m back in Argentina.
Well, last week in Chile I did do a couple of sketches on the spot, although some of the things I would like to have sketched were during walking tours when I didn’t have time. I don’t like sketching from photographs, as I lose much of the sensory experience, but in this case I didn’t have much choice. I haven’t made those sketches yet, but I will soon.
In the meantime, I took my sketchbook on Sunday afternoon and ended up doing this little doodle in La Biela, my favourite people watching cafe.
I had a couple of client deadlines to meet in the past few days, but now that they are done I will be able to spend some time putting together the Chile videos — coming soon.
Finally, I finished my first fileteado painting! It’s an incredibly difficult form and I’m proud I was able to turn out something decent. As you’ll see from the little video I made at Martin’s studio on Sunday night, I am going to go back for another series of classes in April before I go back to Canada, because I want to learn how to do the fileteado lettering, which is an integral part of the images.
If you are ever in Buenos Aires and interested in learning this, you can find the studio of the Asociacion de Fileteadores at Balcarce 1053 in San Telmo. Martin is one of a number of teachers there, and I can wholeheartedly recommend him, not only for his own talent but for his teaching skill, patience and sense of fun. Gracias, Martin!
Yesterday I began a four-week series of classes in Fileteado Porteño, an art form traditional to Buenos Aires.
It began as a way to decorate carriages in the early 19th century, and from there moved to doors and windows, and now you see it on all kinds of things. I’ve bought some of the small signs they sell to tourists. (This is not my work — it’s by a master of the art!)
It’s one of those things that isn’t as simple as it looks at first glance. There is incredible precision in the widths and curves of the lines, and the light and shade that make the designs look three dimensional.
I’ve had a hankering for a while to learn how to do it. Last week when I was in San Telmo with Venetia, we stumbled across an association for the artists, and it turned out they give classes. No groups in the summer, so I’m having private lessons with Martin.
Yesterday I learned about the history of fileteado, and the traditional way of getting the design on paper to start with. I also had a go at painting lines with the special brushes, which is clearly something that takes time to learn! Anyway, I can’t wait for my next lesson and I will put up a photo of whatever I produce by the end of the course.
A nice bonus was the tango music in the background!
