Buenos Aires

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Twenty Years of Splendour

I’ve talked about this place before, but since this is the 20th anniversary of El Ateneo Grand Splendid, I thought it worth mentioning again.

Originally a theatre and then movie theatre, in 2000 this beautiful old building was transformed into a bookshop. Even as the seats were removed to make way for books where people used to sit, the renovation kept most of the original features. The foyer features beautiful coffee table books, journals and diaries, and even a small section of English language books. The box office still kind of fulfills its original function, as it’s now where you go to pay for your books.

If you take the marble staircase to the next level, you can look down over the auditorium, and it’s also a place used for art exhibitions of various kinds.

My two favourite parts are the boxes and the stage, which have been kept as they were and repurposed. I’ve never actually sat in any of the boxes, but people take books in there and read for as long as they like and nobody bothers them.

The stage is now a cafe, where you can have anything from a cup of coffee to a full meal with wine, and if you look up you’ll see all the ropes and pulleys that used to operate the stage.

I pop in once in a while for a coffee and usually end up buying at least one book. And when anyone comes to visit it’s definitely on my list to show them.

Last year, National Geographic voted El Ateneo Grand Splendid “the world’s most beautiful bookshop”. I don’t doubt it.

 

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Spontaneous Day Out!

I had just stepped out of the shower this morning when my phone rang, and it was Cecilia. She had come into the city for a doctor’s appointment and called to see if I had plans for the day. I was supposed to be working, but of course I said I hadn’t! She proposed picking me up at taking me to Olivos, where she lives, for the day. Half an hour later we were on our way to her house.

Another friend, Gillian, also lives in Olivos, so we called her to see if she wanted to join us for lunch, and of course she did. It was a bit early, so we took the dog for a lovely walk down by the port, and then came back to Cecilia’s house to wait for Gillian.

We went to a lovely place called Club Sports, in a nearby town called Martinez. The place was lovely, and the setting even lovelier! It was right on the riverbank, and after a delicious lunch we wandered a little by the water before leaving.

Spontaneous outings can be even more fun just by their nature, and this was certainly true today. Gracias, Cecilia!

Well fed and relaxed after a great lunch

Being silly about the elbow-instead-of-hug thing

A bit more sedate, which isn’t at all like either of us!

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Adios, Maradona!

Yesterday was a sad one for Argentina, when legendary football hero Diego Maradona died at the age of just 60.

Even though he had his problems after his playing days were over, including drugs and health problems, all that is at least temporarily forgotten in the outpouring of love and grief here in Argentina and around the world. The President has declared three days of national mourning, which I thought was just a formality until I saw what was happening all across the country.

I remember watching him in his heyday, when I had no inkling I would ever have a connection with Argentina. My husband and I enjoyed watching him speed down the field, faster than the cartoon Roadrunner, and that left foot — Felix swore he could kick round corners!

Of course, one of his most famous matches was in the 1986 World Cup quarter final, when Argentina beat England 2-1. Both goals were scored by Maradona. The second one was brilliant. The first, well … not so much. It was clearly punched into the net but the ref didn’t see it. It’s known as the Hand of God goal. Of course it knocked England out of the Cup that year, which probably explains this cartoon that was sent to me by my nephew in Scotland! OK, I now see it’s too small to read the caption. It says, “Sure, the English may very well hate me, but the Scottish love me and that’s all that matters!” HaHa!

Anyway, a million people are expected downtown, thousands filing around his casket as he lies in state at the Presidential Palace. What social distancing? Virus — what virus?

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Why All This Excitement?

Last week I posted about a lunch I had with Venetia at a lovely Italian restaurant called Il Sorpasso. On Friday night, I went again with Venetia, Gillian and Lina, this time for dinner. It looks even more beautiful at night. We went at 8 pm, which is very early for Buenos Aires, so we had the place to ourselves until just before we left.

After dinner, there was another Covid milestone — Venetia, Gillian and I went home on the bus! Honestly, we were giddy as we waited at the bus stop — I never thought I’d be so excited to get on a bus. As you can see, we did observe the protocols — each on a separate seat and all wearing masks!

 

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Another Hopeful Sign

As we move into summer here in Argentina, there are more and more signs (at least in Buenos Aires) of some semblance of normality. Last night there was another.

Our friend Joanna Maddox performed again at Notorious, a lovely little night club just a twenty-minute walk from me. This time, in deference to Covid protocol, it took place in the garden at the back — which I didn’t even know existed! It’s a great venue for concerts, although it doesn’t have a lot of seating capacity — and I hope there will be other events there over the summer.

Venetia and I arrived quite early, and she made this video while Joanna was doing sound checks. Thanks, as always, Venetia.

Joanna was in top form! She even called on a friend who happened to be sitting at our table, who is one of her tango partners at the milonga and they danced together. The music wasn’t tango, but the dancing most certainly was!

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Blossom Time in Buenos Aires!

This is the time of year when beautiful Buenos Aires becomes even more beautiful when the flowering trees blossom. Here are a couple from my walk this morning. The red one may or may not be a ceibo tree, which is Argentina’s national flower. It’s very similar to another one, so I’m not sure, but it sure was pretty.

Everybody’s favourite is the jacaranda. Every November they blossom all over the city, like purple painted ribbons along the street and bright splashes of colour in the parks. I particularly like this one because it stands against one of the city’s typical apartment buildings with wrought iron railings.

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Accidental Find

Tonight I set out to have dinner in the cafe where I usually have breakfast, Café Bogotá. But I got there just after eight and it was closing — I guess they are still not on regular time yet, as most Porteños don’t usually go out until nine.

Anyway, it led me to a place on the other side of the square, called Los Inmortales, The Immortals, which is apparently quite an old and well known place. I didn’t realize they were famous for their pizza, or I would have had it, but instead I had milanesa de ternera, breaded veal. Milanesa is a popular dish in Buenos Aires and I enjoy it once it a while. It’s always enormous though, so I have tomorrow’s lunch in hand!

The walls were covered with old photos of the city, and it was fun trying to recognize them as many are quite different today. I don’t think Los Inmortales will become a favourite for me, but I will give their pizza a try.

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The Artesan Fair Is Back!

I just came back from having late morning coffee at La Biela, and lo and behold the artesan fair is back in Plaza Francia — cause for celebration indeed! Not as many stalls as usual, but enough to make it feel almost normal. I walked along the path welcoming them all back!

I felt compelled to buy something to celebrate (as if I needed an excuse!) so I bought this little skirt. After than I found my usual lady I buy little summer skirts from and we greeted each other like old friends. I told her I hadn’t brought much money because I didn’t know they were there, and she said if I wanted anything I could just take it and pay her next weekend — how nice was that? Just like last night at El Sanjuanino, it felt good to be greeted like an old friend!

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Back to Two of Our Old Haunts!

Tonight was great! First I met with Venetia and Sally at La Biela at 8 pm, where we sat out on the terrace and drank a glass of champagne to celebrate the results of the US election. I didn’t take any photos there, but it was lovely to enjoy the summer evening.

Then around 9.30 pm we decided we wanted to eat. The food at La Biela is mediocre at best, so we walked down to one of our favourite haunts, El Sanjuanino, which serves the best empanadas in town. They also do good tamales, which is what we all had this time. They had tables outside, but it was starting to be a bit cool for that, so we went inside — and were greeted like long lost friends by our favourite waiter, Damian. It was lovely to be back there.

The President’s message on Friday said that Buenos Aires was in good shape and they are loosening the restrictions a bit more. The kids are going back to school, but we are still not allowed to use the buses. But going out for dinner is back on my social schedule, which I love. I wonder where I’ll eat tonight!

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Finally Finished

More than a year ago, I went with one of my groups to see the Palacio San Martin, one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. After the tour, I sat down in the lovely green square in front to do a sketch, but it was early winter and too cold to sit. (Here is what I managed that day.) I’ve been promising myself since that day that I would go back and finish it, and today I finally did.

It’s a good half hour walk there, so I was happy to sit down to do the sketch. Afterwards I walked across the street to Rapanui, a place whose ice cream is legendary. I sat at a little table outside and ate passionfruit and kiwi ice cream — bliss!

I had planned to take a taxi home — we’re still not allowed to use the buses — but started to walk and ended up walking all the way home. It’s 4.1 km both ways and I’ll admit to being shattered when I arrived, but now I’ve had a wee rest I feel ready for what’s next.

I’m meeting Venetia for a glass of wine at La Biela at 8 pm and then going for a bite to eat somewhere. My friend Lina said recently that now that we can eat out again, she is doing it every day as she is so fed up with her own cooking. Ditto.