Celta Bar

Lunch today was another Bares Notables adventure, this time back to Celta Bar. We had been there a couple of times, once just for wine and once for a cafe concert, but when I realized we hadn’t actually eaten there I decided to remedy that. I was joined by Venetia, Lina, Joanna and Gary, Gerlinde and Thomas — a nice, fun group.

It was a stinking hot, humid day. You would think everyone would be happy to find the place air-conditioned, but no. The waitress gave us the biggest table in the place, which was an interesting old piece of furniture that might have started life as a desk, an altar or just a box. However, the air conditioning unit was above us on the wall. You wouldn’t believe the game of musical chairs we had so that nobody would have cold air blowing on them!
Eventually we settled in and ordered food. We each ordered something different, and everyone declared their food excellent. I had my standby, Spanish omelette, and I chose the mini one to be sure I could eat it. Turned out, in true Argentine fashion, the plate was mini but the omelette was not!
Lina ordered what we call here Vuelta y Vuelta, which is a steak dropped in the pan and immediately turned over so that it is barely cooked at all — kind of like a blue steak I guess. Anyway, she said this is one of the few places that actually do it the way she asks.
Gary had something called Oli Oli, which was a milanesa topped with so many items he could hardly find the meat underneath! Again, he declared it excellent.

Oli Oli

Mini tortilla espanola

Steak vuelta y vuelta

Hamburger Celta

Pasta

Celta is full of delightful old artifacts — including an ancient Canada Dry box!

Old bottles and boxes

Old Canada Dry Box – surprised to find it here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, thanks to Venetia for the photos.

I’m reaching the deadline for submission of my manuscript to my publisher, so I just have to fill in a few gaps. But as we agreed today, just because the book is done doesn’t mean we can’t just go and have fun — I’ll drink to that!

A Culture Shock Moment

I haven’t posted at all this week, mainly because I haven’t really done anything postworthy, but something  happened last night I wanted to tell you about. In its way it was kind of funny, but I know you might also be a bit uncomfortable about it, so I thought I’d explain.

You may know (or you may not, because the rest of the world doesn’t really pay much attention to Argentina), but this country is currently going through difficult times. The economy is in shambles and the currency is worth a fraction of what it was a year ago. This, of course, results in hardship for many, and there are more homeless and hungry people than before. I live in a fairly ritzy part of town, and I think they must feel more comfortable here, so you often see people sleeping on the street.

Argentina seems to go through this every ten years or so, and always gets through it. So we all hope for the best and try to be patient.

What I wanted to show you, though, was the difference in society’s attitude towards these less fortunate souls. I know that in Canada, for example, if anyone were to sneak into an ordinary family restaurant and try to sell pencils or something, they would quickly be shown the door. Not so here though. As long as they are not bothering people or being obnoxious, they’ll be allowed to do what they can to make a few pesos. Some patrons won’t buy, but many do. I’ve often bought tissues or small notebooks this way. I’ve even seen waiters buy things from them. (I always buy my socks from a guy on the train when I’m going to Olivos to visit Cecilia!)

Another thing you’ll see is when someone (usually kids but not always) walks by an outdoor eating area and sees leftover bread or such, they will often ask if they can have it, and people inevitably say yes. So that’s the background to what happened to me last night.

I had gone out for dinner to a local parilla, or steak house, and was given a table at the front of the outdoor area, overlooking the street — great for people watching. I ordered medallions of lomo (filet mignon) and, as usual, there was far too much food for me. I ate the first medallion and part of the second one, but I just couldn’t manage any more. I might have taken it home, but it wasn’t done quite as well as I’d like for that, so I left it on my plate, together with some potatoes, and pushed it away. I planned to sit for a while and enjoy the rest of my wine.

Along came a young man, probably in his thirties. He didn’t look exactly homeless, but obviously pretty close. He was quite pleasant looking though, and when he eyed my plate and asked if he could have the leftover, I nodded. He took a roll out of the bread basket, split it and put the piece of steak in it. I thought he would walk away, but no! When he saw there was more food on the plate, he pulled it over and sat down! “OK,” I thought, “now I have company for dinner!”

He vacuumed up the food hungrily, but funnily enough with quite nice table manners. I asked him if it was good and he nodded enthusiastically. Then he began to chat. Asked me the usual question about where I was from, and told me he hated his country and wanted to go to America, but had no money.

When the food was almost done, he leaned towards me conspiratorially and said, “Do you want to come to my bed?”

I leaned forward and politely replied, “No, thank you.” He shrugged and carried on mopping up the sauce with the last roll. I think he just felt he had to offer something in return and that’s all he had!

Finally, he finished the food, while I was still drinking my wine. He placed the cutlery correctly on the plate, wiped his mouth with my napkin, stood up and pushed his chair in. He thanked me very politely and wished me goodnight. As the people at the next table were watching with interest, he wished them goodnight too and went on his way.

I have no idea what his story is or how he came to be hungry, but somehow having him share my table and my food was quite an Argentine moment. Neither of us was the least bit uncomfortable, and I’m glad I could fill his belly at least for a wee while.

Outdoor milonga and Chinese food

Last night I went again to La Glorieta, the outdoor milonga in a lovely gazebo in the park. I went with my friend Viviana.

We’ve been having unbearably hot weather for the past week, but last night it felt cooler, so it was perfect for dancing. As I mentioned last time I wrote about La Glorieta, there are no chairs so when you are not dancing you are standing. And the floor is terrazza, so these two things combine to make it hard on the feet. We stayed just over an hour, but danced a lot and had fun.

Just around the corner from the park is Barrio Chino, the Buenos Aires version of Chinatown, so we walked round there afterwards and finished our evening with some lovely Chinese food and a glass of wine. OK a bottle of wine.

This could easily become a favourite Saturday night spot when the weather is good.

Send a Child to School

Some of my expat friends here belong to an organization called Send a Child to School (SACS), whose main program provides backpacks full of school supplies for underprivileged children throughout Argentina. On Thursday I was delighted to be part of a day of packing supplies in the backpacks.

The event was very well organized. We went through a line-up, picking up backpacks for specific children according to age and sex, and adding supplies that had been prepackaged by other volunteers the previous day. Although it was a hot, sweltering day and keeping cool was an impossible task, I enjoyed the process and it felt good to be helping kids.

SACS sent out a message afterwards telling us we had contributed to assembling 2,768 backpacks — that’s a lot of happy kids!

Here are a few pictures to give you a feel for what it was like. The map also shows the work SACS has been doing throughout the country. Thanks, as always, to Venetia for taking the photos as I always forget!

The Black Cat and the Beatles

The other day a few of us went back to El Gato Negro, one of the Bares Notables I’ll be including in my book. As they are best known for their variety of teas, coffees and spices, we went for late morning coffee.

As I arrived first, I spent some time reviewing the menu, which contained such yummy items as orange and ginger cake and glazed lemon slices. I finally chose the orange cake which, unfortunately, wasn’t as good as it sounded. Gerlinde, however, treated it as early lunch and had a sandwich which she pronounced excellent.

What I had in mind all along was the cafe con leche with cardomom, a beautiful combination of flavours I can never resist.

There’s a staircase in the back corner, which we all assumed would lead to the washroom, but it turned out there’s a whole other room up there and Lina could tell us they have live music on some evenings. So we agreed to watch out for what’s playing and make an evening of it sometime.

As we were chatting, Gerlinde asked if any of us had gone to the Beatles Museum, and none had. I knew about it and had looked for it a couple of times but never found it. It was apparently just across the street, so she and I decided to go. No wonder I couldn’t find it, as it was right in the back of a little mall that opened out into a courtyard featuring a cafe called The Cavern! Beatles photos were everywhere.

The museum itself was quite small, but very well curated with lots of memorabilia, important dates, photos and videos. We thoroughly enjoyed it. Here’s a little video and some photos I took.

Liz’s First Tango Lesson!

Recently I wrote about taking new friend Liz shopping for tango shoes, and last night she had her first tango lesson. As she was a tad nervous, I went with her, and Alejandro and I did a few demo dances.

Liz did amazingly well! Check out her video, and remember this was her first time dancing tango! (Due credit to Alejandro as he is an amazing teacher.)

Before you watch the videos, I wanted to say something people often ask me about. Every time I post one of my tango videos, someone usually wonders how I can remember all the steps and sequences. The answer is that I don’t. You don’t need to remember, because you dance according to where you’re being led, and as you contribute to the co-creation of the dance, the steps evolve naturally. None of these videos, including Liz’s, is choreographed in any way. It’s all about connection with the music, between the dancers and with the floor.

We did three demo dances. The first was a traditional tango with music from the thirties or forties, then we did a lighthearted, playful one, and the last one was dramatic and passionate — Liz said she couldn’t breathe as she watched it!

Anyway, I’ve included just the first and second ones for you to see the different ways you can dance tango.  I love tango — can you tell?

Liz’s debut!

Traditional style

A more playful approach

Fun Photo Shoot for My Book

I wanted to do a second edition of Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango to keep it active, and Amazon says you have to make substantive changes or additions for a new edition. So I added a chapter about my stay in hospital and a fourth chapter about tango, this one about the clothes.

Venetia did a whole fashion shoot with several of my outfits (and shoes of course!) on the roof of her building. We chose early evening for the light, but it was still sweltering hot in stretch velvet!

It was lots of fun, and given the raw material she had to work with I think Venetia did a great job! I’m going to tell my fellow tangueras about her services, and hopefully she’ll get some business from this.

Here are just a few. Now I have to choose which ones to put in the book!

Tango Music at Cafe de los Angelitos

I’ve been to Cafe de los Angelitos a couple of times already, as it is a Bar Notable and there will be a chapter about it in my book. The reason for this visit was quite specific.

I belong to a worldwide expat organization called InterNations, and in Buenos Aires it has a tango group. They organized a little gathering where a professional tango pianist would come along and tell us something about the history and styles of tango music, and a we would be treated to some bandoneon music.

There couldn’t be a more appropriate setting than Cafe de los Angelitos, which is steeped in the history of tango. Photographs of the great tango orchestra leaders adorn the walls, and even the stained glass panels are tango themed.

The bandoneonista was a young woman, and apparently there’s a trend for more women playing the bandoneon. I think that’s interesting, as it may well add yet another nuance to the ever evolving music of tango.

She played on a little balcony over the bar, and told us to go ahead and chat and she would just play in the background. I find it very hard to sit when tango music is playing, and I might have invited one of the men in the group to dance, but there just wasn’t any space between the tables. In any case, it was a lovely interlude.

I hope you enjoy this little bitesized taste of Buenos Aires.

The Devil Made Me Do It!

This week a lovely young woman from South Africa arrived in Buenos Aires. Liz is a friend of a friend of Venetia, and has quickly become one of our group of badass women! On her first night here, Venetia, Sasha, Liz and I went for drinks on the terrace at La Biela and we told her all about Buenos Aires. She immediately latched onto the tango idea and said she wanted a lesson. Of course, I said I’d connect her with Alejandro.

However, nothing would do but she had to have the right shoes before she goes for a lesson! So today I took her for the quintessential tango shoe shopping experience at Comme Il Faut. Did I really think I could go there and not buy shoes? Of course not! Here’s the evidence.

I love these shoes! If I wasn’t going out already tonight I would go dancing in them. But since I’ve been to milonga three times already this week and I have my lesson tomorrow, maybe it’s just as well! They can wait!

Tango in the Open Air!

Wow, last night I went somewhere I have been wanting to go to for a very long time. It’s called La Glorieta, and it’s an open-air milonga. I went with two of my tanguera friends, Lina and Lola.

The dance space is in a pergola in a park in the barrio of Belgrano, which takes ten minutes or so by train from the main railway station. When we arrived, a class was just finishing, and there was also some kind of film crew setting up. A few couples were dancing — in silence. Yes, no music. It turned out there was some sort of power cut and they couldn’t work the sound system, but they said it would start in an hour when it began to get dark and the generator-powered lights came on. This being Buenos Aires, nobody complained and everyone just sat on the steps, changed their shoes and began to chat with other people.

Sure enough, as darkness fell, the music started and the milonga was soon in full swing. The crowd had people from twenties to eighties, which was delightful. It does my heart good to see how many young people are dancing tango, because that will keep it alive. All three of us danced quite a lot, which always makes it fun.

There are a few differences between La Glorieta and the traditional milongas. First, it’s free to go in, although they do pass a hat once the dancing is well underway. You put in whatever you like — here this is called paying a la gorra.

There’s nowhere to put your bag, so you hang it on a hook on the side railing. Sounded a bit iffy to me, but everyone does it and mine came to no harm.

There’s no food or drink, and I have to admit I enjoy a glass of champagne at the usual milongas. Still, it’s probably just as well as there are no washrooms either!

The one thing that did bother me was that there are no chairs. So you are either dancing or standing, and don’t get the chance to rest your legs between tandas as you do in regular milongas. And the floor is terrazza, which is hard on the knees anyway. So we just stayed about 90 minutes and our legs had had enough. (I’m resting up today so that I’ll be ready for my regular milonga tonight!)

I didn’t take any photos as I was too busy dancing, but these stock photos will give you an idea how it looks. I’ll definitely be going back!