Palacio San Martin

One thing that struck me when I first arrived in Buenos Aires — and strikes pretty much everyone else — was the wonderful architecture. Being a sketcher, of course, I noticed it even more.

Among the really beautiful buildings are the many “palacios” that were built by wealthy families of the past — actually, “wealthy” doesn’t begin to cover it, which is apparent in some of the sumptuous homes. Some are used as office buildings, luxury hotels, grand apartments. Some are simply museums.

The one I saw today, Palacio San Martin, was bought by the Argentine government from the Anchorena family, and today belongs to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. I guess because of that, we were allowed to take photographs only outside, in the courtyard and the doorways, but nothing inside. That’s a pity, because they were jaw dropping. Here are the outside shots I took.

I have actually been meaning to sketch this building for, literally, years. I decided to go half an hour early for the tour and do it. Half an hour? What was I thinking? I’ll have to go back at least one more time to finish it. I’ll post it here when it’s done.

This is all I managed to get done — have to go back to finish it another day.

Tour of the Congreso

Today I went with some friends on a tour of the Congreso, which is the legislature building containing the Chambers of the Deputies and the Senators. Lovely old building, with just the kind of grandeur you usually see in buildings of this type. I did remember to take pictures, which I often don’t!

The Senate Chamber

The Senate Chamber, lower levels

The President’s Seat

Ceiling of the Chamber of Deputies

Three types of marble: the beige is Argentine, the whitish Italian and the red Spanish

Monument to Eva Peron

Video of the Week: Caminito

Here’s a little taste of the lovely day I spent yesterday with Venetia, Raul, Amir and Efrat in the lovely Caminito. In my opening clip I refer to it as a tourist part, but it kind of sounds like a tourist park. I don’t want you to think it’s a park of any kind. On the contrary, it’s part of La Boca, a very old, historic barrio with its own fascinating history.

I hope you enjoy the video.

 

Two Different Art Experiences

I went to two quite different art exhibits this past week.

On Wednesday I went with five friends to MALBA, the Museum of Latin American Art, which had a special exhibit of Mexican artists. I was primarily interested in Diego Rivera, whose work I first saw and loved at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. However, there were many beautiful pieces there, as well as a few that required a strong stomach! There were two of my favourites, but I unfortunately forgot to note the artists’ names.

The first one is an abstract study of people in a cafe, and I liked it because it seemed happy! The lady in the satin dress was on a wall opposite the door and was very striking as you walked in. It’s a pity my iPhone refused to take photos without flash, as it kind of washed out the beautiful bronz colour of her dress.

 

 

 

 

Today my friend Hemilce called and asked if I’d like to go to the Museum of Fine Art to see an exhibit of the Spanish artist Joan Miró, and that was completely different from the MALBA experience. The two on the left ar typical of the artist’s strong use of colour and abstract subject matter.

The third (sorry it’s a bit dark) was a room off the main gallery where children were playing games associated with the exhibit and contributing their own efforts. I love this kind of thing, which helps kids appreciate culture while they’re young.

The entrance to the exhibit was this blue corridor — I thought it was kind of fun.

This beautiful lady was my favourite of everything I saw today, even though she isn’t part of the exhibit we went to see. She is called Bianca and is by the 19th century French sculptor Gustavo Frederic Michel. Isn’t she lovely? Most sculptured heads look blind to me, with their blank eyes. This one was different. The eyeballs were carved in such a way that she actually looks as if she is looking at something.

I don’t do a lot of galleries as a rule, so it was fun to do two such different ones in such a short time.

Benito Quinquela Martin, fantastic Argentine artist

Today I went with my friend Cecilia to the Museum of Benito Quinquela Martin. I’ve wanted to go here for a long time but never managed to find the place, so today I asked Cecilia to take me — I’m so glad I did.
Quinquela Martin was a son of La Boca, a working class barrio down by the docks. His art depicts the life of the dockworkers of his day. It reminded me of the work of Diego Rivera, which also affected me deeply.
Quinquela Martin’s work is easily recognizable for its incredible use of colour and light. I’m afraid my iPhone photographs don’t do it justice, but here they are anyway. The second last is a high relief sculpture of the artist at work, mounted on the outside wall of one of the iconic cafes of the area, La Perla de Caminito. The last is a shot of his paints and brushes — imagine what those simple tools in the hands of a master created.