Author: hwilkie@mhwcom.com

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Bar Notable “La Poesia”

More research last night for the new book! Silvia, Venetia, Viviana and Joanna joined me at La Poesia, a lovely old bar in San Telmo that was created long ago as a kind of hangout for writers and poets and other literary folks.

I was sitting near the side door, and suddenly a woman walked in and started singing! She was good — no microphone, no accompanists, just a good set of pipes. She was good.

Then soon after she left, a man pulled a chair over from a table, sat down and started playing bandoneon, that soulful instrument that gives tango music is distinctive sound. He was good too!

Nobody pays these people. They just go around the various bars and cafes, do their thing and rely on tips — kind of modern day troubadors! Anyway, here are the two videos Venetia shot (thanks Venetia!)  of the performances and a bit of the surroundings to give you a feel for La Poesia.


 

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More Research — 2 Cafes in One Afternoon!

Yesterday, Raul, Venetia, Gillian and I arranged to visit and review Los Galgos, one of the Cafes Notables of Buenos Aires. Interesting name: los galgos means the greyhounds. I thought it might have had a more interesting history, but according to the waitress, who did seem quite knowledgeable, it was simply that the original owner loved going to the racetrack to watch the greyhound races.

Originally opened in 1930, Los Galgos was by all accounts a vibrant part of an area that never slept, until it closed after several decades. I can’t seem to find exactly when it closed, but in 2015 it reopened under new management. They worked hard to renovate the cafe using many of the original materials and keeping to the spirit of the original.

We had coffee, which wasn’t as great as we had expected but not bad. We also shared some fantastic tarta de ricotta, a very generous slice of moist sponge cake with a filling kind of similar to German style cheesecake. Delicious!

When we left, Raul mentioned another Cafe Notable nearby called Celta, and we decided to take that one in while we were in the area. Being merienda time, we opted for wine instead of coffee.

Great old place with hams and salamis and cheeses hanging from the ceiling. But my favourite thing was the big old fashioned cash register hand decorated with Fileteado Porteño!

Everyone is entering into the spirit of my research with gusto, and Venetia, who is a professional photographer, is taking lots of shots so I’ll have a good selection for the book.

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Fileteado Porteño Picture Done!

Finally, I finished my first fileteado painting! It’s an incredibly difficult form and I’m proud I was able to turn out something decent. As you’ll see from the little video I made at Martin’s studio on Sunday night, I am going to go back for another series of classes in April before I go back to Canada, because I want to learn how to do the fileteado lettering, which is an integral part of the images.

If you are ever in Buenos Aires and interested in learning this, you can find the studio of the Asociacion de Fileteadores at Balcarce 1053 in San Telmo. Martin is one of a number of teachers there, and I can wholeheartedly recommend him, not only for his own talent but for his teaching skill, patience and sense of fun. Gracias, Martin!

Here’s the video, which I hope you enjoy.

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Afternoon Milonga

I’ve never done this before, but today I went to an afternoon milonga — and I really enjoyed it. The place is called El Beso, and it had been recommended to me by a couple of people, so today I decided to give it a try. It started at 1.30 pm and went on until 8 pm, although I actually left around 5 pm.

The first man I danced with was French Canadian, and the second was Scottish! But both danced tango well, so that was OK. Actually, the Scottish man was on vacation here with his wife, and I spent a nice time with them explaining some things about the Buenos Aires milonga scene they didn’t know. It was fun.

I have to say that coming out of the milonga into the light of day was a bit strange — kind of like going to a matinee at the movies, I guess. But most of the people there were of my vintage, and I rather enjoyed that. I’m going to go back next Saturday and hopefully my friend Lola will come too.

Tango on!

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El Gato Negro

Today I had lunch with Venetia at El Gato Negro, another of the cafes notables I am researching for my book, with the help of some cafe loving friends!

This is a lovely old place, with traditional flooring, lots of wood panelling, waiters with red vests — and a wonderful smell composed of coffee and the many spices they use in cooking and also sell. Venetia had cafe con leche flavoured with cardamom!

We had tacos for lunch, but they were like no tacos I’ve ever had. Quite small and not folded over. The mixture was piled on top of them, and consisted of chicken pieces in a curry flavoured yogurt sauce. Yummy!

Here’s my quick sketch of the wall behind the counter, with the signature black cat overlooking all the bottles and jars and cans of spices, coffees and teas.

When we left and were walking along Corrientes, we passed this great little sweet shop and I couldn’t resist the white and bitter chocolate flakes! Good thing I walk so much, or this research would be making me fat!

 

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New Authorly Experience

Last night I had a new experience, as I was the guest author at the InterNations book group here in Buenos Aires. My friend Lola is the “consul” for this group and she set it up. As I’ve never done an author reading before, I was a little nervous, but it was a friendly group and all turned out well.

Lola hosted the group in her lovely home in Palermo, and the malbec was flowing freely — this might have contributed to the interesting discussions sparked by the extracts I chose from the book!

Later today Venetia and I are doing some “research” at another cafe notable. Stay tuned.

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Movie — Darkest Hour

I went to the movies again with Venetia and Raul yesterday, and saw “Darkest Hour”. This movie focuses on the beginning of Churchill’s time as Prime Minister during the war years, including his struggles to have his plans and ideas accepted by the Opposition. It take a close-up, intimate look at his arguments with Chamberlain and Halifax over their desire for peace negotiations with Hitler, and ends with the heroic evacuation of Dunkirk.

My definition of good acting is when you don’t actually see the actor, just the character. By that measure, Gary Oldman does a masterful job, as I truly never noticed him — I only saw Churchill. It was a gripping movie, and I must admit it stirred my British blood quite a bit! I hope Oldman wins the Oscar for Best Actor, as it would be well deserved.

Kristin Scott Thomas also turned in a low-key but effective performance as Churchill’s wife, Clementine, and Ben Mendelsohn’s King George was convincing and empathetic. The movie should also win an award for make-up, based on Oldman’s physical transformation alone.

Highly recommended.

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New Book Project — Research Started

As you probably know, Rare Steak, Red Wine, Hot Tango! was the first in a series of “love letters to Argentina”. I hadn’t planned it that way originally, but it soon became clear it was the way to go.

I have been working on the second one, which is about my trip to Salta and Jujuy at the beginning of December. I will probably publish that when I get back to Canada in May — or maybe before.

But I’m excited to let you know I now have the third book in the works! Buenos Aires has a very strong cafe tradition, and there are quite a number of establishments known as cafes notables or bares notables — cafes and bars are pretty much the same thing here. Anyway, these notable bars and cafes are very old, often historic, eating and gathering places across the city, and I decided it would be a good idea to write a book about them.

I don’t want it to be a “guide book”, but rather my own take on these wonderful old places, so that others visiting can decide which ones to visit. I’ve put out the word to a small group of my friends here who might like to join me in the “research” phase — ie visiting as many as possible before I leave at the end of April, sampling the coffee, wine and food (notably pastries!) Research is hell, but it has to be done!!

Yesterday I did the first research trip on my own, because it was such short notice nobody else was able to come.

Las Violetas

Las Violetas is one of the most popular of the cafes notables, and this was my first visit. I consulted my trusty Google Maps, but didn’t like the route they suggested. I thought I knew a better one. Well … it did get me there, but I had to walk quite a distance through a barrio known as Once (pronounced onsay). This is not one of the better areas of town, but I have to say I loved it! There was such energy and fun in the air just walking down Pueyrredon that I was tempted to whip out my iPhone and make a video, but I quickly realized that wasn’t advisable as someone might have pinched it as I worked! I’m not a bit afraid as I walk on the streets of Buenos Aires, but there’s no point in being silly!

Anyway, I eventually arrived at Las Violetas and it was well worth the long walk. Here are a few photos I shot inside.


Although I opted to have a steak sandwich and make it my evening meal, their specialty really is “afternoon tea or coffee”, with huge plates of little sandwiches and these yummy miniature cakes. So I’ll definitely have to go back to Las Violetas with friends to share the bounty — as well as the “research!”

Stay tuned for more cafes notables posts coming up soon.

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Still not finished — but soon

Last night I was supposed to finish my Fileteado Porteño painting and I was looking forward to posting it this morning. Alas, it’s still not done!

It’s incredibly difficult work, and it’s a good thing Martin is a patient teacher. Based on what is still left, though, I should be able to finish it OK next Sunday. So stay tuned for next Monday’s post!